Stephen Fries – Mainline Media News https://www.mainlinemedianews.com Main Line PA News, Sports, Weather, Things to Do Mon, 17 Jun 2024 11:39:41 +0000 en-US hourly 30 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.4 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/MainLineMediaNews-siteicon.png?w=16 Stephen Fries – Mainline Media News https://www.mainlinemedianews.com 32 32 196021895 Get creative with salads https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/06/12/get-creative-with-salads/ Wed, 12 Jun 2024 12:48:40 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=368799&preview=true&preview_id=368799 It’s the time of year when many of us enjoy eating a salad, especially on a hot, humid day. That’s why May was proclaimed as National Salad Month. But what exactly is a salad?

What comes to mind: Caesar, Waldorf, potato, tuna, pasta? Some even think of it as rabbit food, which perhaps is true, if you think about how salads were prepared back in the day …iceberg lettuce, a slice of onion and cucumber, a wedge of tomato, some shredded carrots, and perhaps an olive or two. Today, many restaurants, especially fast-food restaurants, still prepare it this way.

In years past, salad was served as an appetizer or side dish, with little creativity in its preparation. Remember the salads that included cubes of green Jell-O?  Perhaps, I am dating myself.

Fast forward, and salads today, quite often, take center stage as meals, using a variety of greens, many unbeknownst to most in the past. Arugula seems to be popular and has become a favorite of mine. Watercress, Bok choy, endive, kale and a plethora of lettuces have taken over from plain old iceberg.

Fruits, both fresh and dried, heirloom vegetables (roasted ones add great flavor), seeds, beans, grains, nuts, meats, fish, cheese and easily made, delicious dressings are now part of the ingredient repertoire.

Salads are a time-poor cook’s secret weapon for putting a healthy and delicious meal on the table. They offer endless possibilities; go to your local farmers market and introduce yourself to some unfamiliar greens and vegetables. Ask local farmers for some suggestions, too.

With some creativity, a simple, easy-to-prepare dish becomes a delicious and healthy lunch or dinner. But remember, some salad dressings can add those unnecessary, and unwanted calories.

Many years ago, I met Wiley Mullins (aka “The Salad Man”), author of “Salad Makes the Meal,” published in 2008. He inspired me to add more dinner and lunch salads to my diet. It is quite easy with a cookbook that offers inspiration.

Fresh off the press is “The Salad Lab: Whisk, Toss, Enjoy!” by Darlene Schrijver (2024, Simon Element, $32.50). It is a welcome addition to my collection, especially with all the local produce becoming available.

You might be thinking you don’t need a cookbook to make salad. Perhaps you don’t if you choose not to go beyond tossed greens and a couple of other ingredients. Why not take your salads to the next level, mixing textures and flavors. You’ll learn to incorporate roasted, grilled, sauteed and pickled vegetables, as well as grains, dried and fresh fruit, beans and a variety of pastas.

Before getting into the recipes, the author shares her salad philosophy; for example, embracing variety and experimentation.

She writes: “The experiment section follows every recipe in this book. It’s where I recommend how to swap out polarizing ingredients, seasonal produce, animal products for plant-based products and more.”

The hints on how to shop and what to shop for to make the perfect salad are helpful. I found the “Pantry Control Group” interesting. Here, she has a column listing 16 ingredients, for example salad toppings. Then, two columns follow, one labeled basic, and one luxurious. Under basic she lists pita chips, tortilla chips, Italian bread crumbs, and under luxurious is where she lists plantain chips, sweet potato chips, cheese crisps and rice crackers.

I had the opportunity to interview Darlene.

Q: Why are some people afraid to be creative when making a salad. They just use the same old Iceberg lettuce, a few cherry tomatoes, some onion, etc.?

A: I think there are a few reasons: Historically Iceberg (and if you were lucky in the summer romaine) was all you could get. Today with overnight delivery networks, hydroponics, local greenhouses, expansion of farmers markets, home gardening, plus trending farm to table restaurants, the options are endless.

Like mac and cheese, some foods are just comforting. For salads, you see that with the resurgence of “the wedge” salad in restaurants.

Increases in produce prices are no joke. It’s safer to use what you know. I really support substituting what is in season, on sale, or what you have on hand, and then trying a couple of new ingredients to discover what you like.  I really encourage people to experiment.

Q: Some people don’t prepare salad at home because it doesn’t taste like the ones they have enjoyed at a restaurant. Why is this?

A: Fresh herbs! I can’t emphasize this enough, such a game changer, it brings out the freshness and flavor and makes your salad pop!

Salt, I am a huge Maldon flake sea salt fan. Season your salads with freshly cracked pepper and flake sea salt (it is in almost every recipe). It enhances the flavors.

Say no to bottled dressing, make your own! It makes a huge difference. No preservatives, bad tasting oils or chemical flavors when you make it yourself. You can adjust the level of garlic, mustard and heat/spice to your personal taste.

Q: Salads are sometimes not as healthy as one might think.  Psychologically, people eat a salad and think they will lose weight. What suggestions do you have regarding this?

A: You are absolutely correct, some salads (like ones with french fries on top) are not going to put you in a calorie deficit or lower your bad cholesterol.  I am not a nutritionist nor dietitian, and anyone going on any sort of health or weight loss journey should educate themselves on that topic.

My platform is about having fun making salads, and hopefully a side benefit is people enjoy, experiment and create more meals with fresh vegetables and protein. I don’t know too many people that have gotten sick from including a larger variety of vegetables in their meals (unless they have allergy issues and there are always substitutes).

Q: What separates your book from the other salad cookbooks in the market?

A: There is something for everyone! Our “salad community” is very diverse, and I have included an experiment section for each recipe that has some substitution recommendations for vegans, vegetarians and hard-to-find ingredients.

From beginning cooks to experienced ones, I have recommendations on how to fill your pantry full of ingredients to have on hand from must haves to the luxurious for a salad.  It includes my style of recipes for most of the favorites you see at family gatherings and on menus, destination salads from different states like Hawaiian Poke salad, and countries like a West African style citrus and avocado salad.

There are seasonal and holiday salads, including one that is a whole Thanksgiving dinner, and the perfect colorful wedding salad with both roasted and fresh vegetables for everyone, including vegans (it’s the book’s cover), a few fabulous celebrity favorites that helped launch my platform, plus my favorite section called, “Everything is a Salad” where I have created favorites like fish tacos, grinder sandwiches, and pizza into a salad too.

My goal in writing this book was to share the fun and joy of preparing your own salads, and experiencing them with others. I tell my kids, everyone needs a hobby, why can’t it be making salads?  Experiment!

Watermelon Feta Salad is surprisingly fabulous in every way, blending sweet, salty, spicy, and savory in one delicious bite. (Photo by Erin Kunkel)
Watermelon Feta Salad is surprisingly fabulous in every way, blending sweet, salty, spicy, and savory in one delicious bite. (Photo by Erin Kunkel)

For the recipe for Watermelon Feta Salad, visit https://bit.ly/4cgPaym.

Doradito Salad is a little trip down memory lane as it includes Doritos as one of its ingredients. (Photo by Erin Kunkel)
Doradito Salad is a little trip down memory lane as it includes Doritos as one of its ingredients. (Photo by Erin Kunkel)

Doradito Salad

The headnote says: “Who doesn’t love Doritos? Called ‘a swinging Latin sort of snack’ when first advertised in the 1960s, Doritos are still the number one chip in the United States today. Fun fact: the name combines the Spanish words doradito and dorado, both of which describe fried golden things. They are considered comfort food for some. and almost everyone has some sort of teenage flashback related to these cheesy corn chips. This salad recipe is a little trip down memory lane. I put the Salad Lab twist on the dressing and replaced the traditional bottled, syrupy Catalina dressing (yikes) with this lighter homemade one (yum). We also enjoy a little more spice in our house, so I used chorizo and pickled jalapeños instead of the classic ’taco meat.’”

Serves 4 as a meal or 6-10 as a side

Ingredients:

START OUT

1 ½ cups fresh Mexican chorizo (not cured), casings removed if necessary

Ice water

¼ cup diced red onion (1⁄4-inch pieces)

1 cup quartered cherry tomatoes, or substitute what looks best at the market

WHISK

1 teaspoon pressed garlic

1⁄3 cup avocado oil

¼ cup red wine vinegar

¼ cup ketchup

3 tablespoons grated yellow or red onion

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon celery seed

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon chili powder

Flaky sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

TOSS

4 cups chopped iceberg lettuce (bite-size pieces)

4 cups chopped romaine lettuce (bite-size pieces)

1 ½ cups crushed Nacho Cheese Doritos (bite-size pieces)

1 cup cooked or rinsed and drained canned pinto beans

1 cup cubed avocado (½ inch pieces)

1⁄3 cup grated Monterey Jack cheese

1⁄3 cup grated medium-sharp cheddar cheese

¼  cup drained pickled jalapeño slices

Nacho Cheese Doritos, for serving (optional)

EXPERIMENT: Try substituting this dressing with the Cilantro Lime Dressing on page 251. There are so many canned beans available now; experiment with black beans, Great Northern beans or black-eyed peas. Use any lettuce you like or already have. If you don’t like spicy or are not a chorizo fan, substitute ground turkey or beef prepared with taco seasoning. If you like to eat the salad as a dip, don’t crush the chips and toss them in; use them as your spoon instead.

Directions:

START OUT: Heat a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Line a plate with paper towels. When the pan is hot, add the chorizo. Cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up the meat in small, bite-size pieces using a spatula, until well browned and cooked through, 6 to 9 minutes. Transfer to the prepared plate with a slotted spoon to drain. Meanwhile, fill a 500-ml beaker or a small glass bowl halfway with ice water and add the diced onion. Soak for 10 minutes, then drain and pat the onion dry. Place the tomatoes in a colander and gently press down with a spoon to drain off excess liquid.

WHISK: Rinse the pressed garlic in a very fine mesh strainer and shake off any excess water. In a large salad bowl, combine the garlic, oil, vinegar, ketchup, grated onion, sugar, Worcestershire sauce, celery seed, paprika, and chili powder and season with salt and pepper. Whisk until well combined, then taste and adjust the seasoning if needed.

TOSS: In the bowl with the dressing, add the iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, crushed Doritos, beans, avocado, jack cheese, cheddar cheese, jalapeños, chorizo, diced onion, and tomatoes. Toss until all the ingredients are evenly combined and coated with dressing and serve. If you want to get fancy, garnish with extra chips around the bowl.

ENJOY: I’m having it with a merlot or soda.

Red, White and Blue Potato Salad is for all the potato lovers out there looking for a great alternative to the classic mayonnaise-based potato salad. (Photo by Erin Kunkel)
Red, White and Blue Potato Salad is for all the potato lovers out there looking for a great alternative to the classic mayonnaise-based potato salad. (Photo by Erin Kunkel)

Red, White, and Blue Potato Salad

The headnote says: “Everyone loves potatoes. The average American eats 120 pounds of potatoes each year. That’s double the amount of the next largest consumed vegetable, lettuce. Hey, that’s a lot of salads; maybe I should make more potato salads? This one is for all the potato lovers out there looking for a great alternative to the classic mayonnaise-based potato salad (find my version on page 48). I love the rich buttery texture of the mixed potatoes paired with the Meyer lemon, dill, and chive dressing. It’s one of my favorites to accompany a meal on a hot summer day.”

Serves 8-12 as a side

Ingredients:

START OUT

Flaky sea salt

3 pounds mixed baby red, Yukon gold, and purple potatoes

Ice water

½ cup diced shallot (1⁄4-inch pieces)

WHISK

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼  cup fresh Meyer lemon or regular lemon juice (remember to zest first)

¼ cup finely chopped fresh chives

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flatleaf parsley

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon lightly packed grated Meyer lemon zest or regular lemon zest

Flaky sea salt and freshly

cracked black pepper

TOSS

Flaky sea salt, for serving (optional)

Directions:

START OUT: Fill a large pot half full of water and lightly salt the water. Over high heat, bring to a boil, add the potatoes, then cover and lower the heat to medium low or a soft boil. Cook until you can easily pierce the potatoes with a fork all

the way to the center, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the pot, drain, and let cool. Cut into quarters or 3⁄4-inch pieces.

Meanwhile, fill a 250-ml beaker or a small glass bowl halfway with ice water and add the shallot. Soak for 10 minutes, then drain and pat the shallot dry.

WHISK: In a large salad bowl, combine the oil, lemon juice, chives, dill, parsley, vinegar, and zest and season with salt and pepper. Whisk until well combined, then taste and adjust the seasoning if needed.

TOSS: In the bowl with the dressing, add the potatoes and shallot. Gently toss until all the ingredients are evenly combined and coated with dressing. Let sit covered at room temperature for 20 minutes, or refrigerate overnight, so the potatoes can absorb the dressing (this salad can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days). Serve cold or at room temperature, garnished with flaky sea salt, if you like.

ENJOY: I’m having it with sparkling wine or lemonade.

EXPERIMENT: Head to your local farmers’ market and try the many varieties of potatoes available there, as they often have the best flavor. I have made this many times with all baby red potatoes. You can also substitute sweet yellow or red onions if shallots are not available. Don’t forget this one for Independence Day!

Recipes excerpted from “The Salad Lab,” copyright 2024, Darlene Schrijver. Photography copyright 2023 by Erin Kunkel. Reproduced by permission of Simon Element, an imprint of Simon & Schuster, LLC. All rights reserved.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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368799 2024-06-12T08:48:40+00:00 2024-06-17T07:39:41+00:00
Get creative with veggie burgers https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/05/29/get-creative-with-veggie-burgers/ Wed, 29 May 2024 15:30:18 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=367763&preview=true&preview_id=367763 The unofficial start of summer passed last weekend, which means grilling season has begun, at least it has here in the Northeast.

A juicy hamburger, a perfectly cooked steak, ribs, BBQ chicken or grilled hot dogs come to mind most often when one thinks of grilling or barbecue. However, if you have guests who are vegetarian or vegan, these menu items simply won’t do. A mass-produced packaged veggie burger is what most of us think is all that’s available to serve them.

With plant-based diets on the rise, we need to be creative in what to offer at a barbecue get-together. There are freshly made options available at the ready food counter at markets, and there is a bounty of delectable recipes to prepare at home.

As I have been trying to incorporate more vegetables in my diet, when dining out, trying chef-driven innovative varieties of veggie burgers is part of the fun. Those that don’t make the mark are when the restaurant purchases them ready-made and frozen. The times I have really enjoyed one, the chef put creative thought into the dish.

I am always on the lookout for tasty recipes for veggie burgers. When I saw the front cover of “Veggie Burgers Every Which Way: Fresh, Flavorful & Healthy Plant-Based Burgers” by Lucas Volger (2023, The Experiment, $25.95), I got hungry looking at the beautiful and hearty burger.

What also caught my attention was the back cover that says, “Veggie burgers for veggie lovers and curious carnivores alike.”

In his preface the author writes, “I’ve never been very excited about a veggie burger that tastes like meat. My perspective in this book was, and continues to be, that veggie burgers should be creative expressions of vegetables.”

Interestingly, the vegans I know are not interested nor excited about Beyond or Impossible burgers because they, too, aren’t looking for the texture and taste of  meat. On the other hand, there are carnivores that choose to go meatless every so often and replace a meat burger with something that closely replicates it.

Once considered a hippie food … where did the creation begin? As with most food items or dishes, there are a few claims as to its founding. There’s one that was mentioned several times in my research.

It was in London in 1982 when Gregory Sams, a nutritionist, invented the first commercially made veggie burger he called VegeBurger. It was a dry mix packet. Fast-forward several decades, and the humble veggie burger has been elevated.

Volger’s book, with unique, delicious recipes tailored to a variety of diets (over half are vegan and/or gluten free), will excite each palate and suit every craving at this summer’s barbecues. The book is all-encompassing, with chapters on bean and grain burgers; vegetable burgers; tofu, seitan and TVP burgers; burger buns; sides; salads and fries; condiments and toppings. Volger also shares his universally fail-safe cooking methods.

Quinoa, Red Bean, and Walnut Burgers. Cooking with the pomegranate sesame sauce creates a tart and nutty glaze on the burger makes it unique. (Photo by Evi Abeler)
Quinoa, Red Bean, and Walnut Burgers. Cooking with the pomegranate sesame sauce creates a tart and nutty glaze on the burger makes it unique. (Photo by Evi Abeler)

So, move over freezer patties and faux meats and welcome Baked Falafel Burgers (recipe below); Spicy Peanut and Carrot Burgers (recipe below); Quinoa, Red Bean and Walnut Burgers (recipe at  https://bit.ly/3Vipgo4); Sesame Sweet Potato and Cabbage Burgers; Corn Burgers With Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Goat Cheese; Tofu and Chard Burgers; and Tortilla-Crusted Stuffed Portobello Burgers.

Baked Falafel Burgers. You'll be amazed at how vibrant the flavors are, how the parsley and lemon shine through. (Photo by Evi Abeler)
Baked Falafel Burgers. You’ll be amazed at how vibrant the flavors are, how the parsley and lemon shine through. (Photo by Evi Abeler)

Baked Falafel Burgers

Vegan, gluten free

Makes four 4-inch burgers

The headnote says: “In this falafel method, the chickpeas are soaked overnight but not cooked. (If we were deep-frying the burgers rather than baking them, this would be the traditional falafel method.) Store-bought falafel mixes — many of which are wonderful — use ground, unsoaked dried beans, but I find that the soaking makes for a significantly less dense, more tender falafel. The mixture is a bit more delicate than other burgers in this book, but you’ll be amazed at how vibrant the flavors are, how the parsley and lemon shine through. Serve with Cucumber Yogurt Sauce, Tahini Yogurt Sauce or plain tahini along with a squirt of sriracha, as a nod to the street food that fed me throughout my college years. Unfortunately, cooked chickpeas will not work in this recipe; there will be too much liquid and the burgers will fall apart as they cook.”

Ingredients:

1 cup dried chickpeas, rinsed thoroughly

1 onion, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves

½ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley

Zest of 1 lemon plus juice of ½

1 tablespoon toasted cumin seeds

½ teaspoon baking soda (GF)

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon chickpea or all-purpose flour, if needed

Olive oil, for greasing

Directions:

Cover the chickpeas with 4 to 5 inches of water in a bowl and let stand for 24 hours. Drain thoroughly. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Combine the chickpeas, onion, garlic, parsley, lemon zest and juice, cumin, baking soda, salt, pepper and cayenne in a food processor. Pulse until coarsely combined. If the mixture is struggling to come together, add a bit of water, but no more than 2 tablespoons. (The burgers will fall apart when cooking if there’s too much liquid.) If water is added, stir in the chickpea flour. Adjust seasonings. Shape into 6 patties, about 1/3 cup each. It will be a fairly wet dough.

Liberally oil a baking sheet. Transfer the patties to the baking sheet and place in the oven. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, flipping them once halfway through, until golden and firm. Serve warm.

Spicy Peanut and Carrot Burgers. Peanut butter and a few fragrant aromatics serve to amplify and enhance the carrot, making this another one of those veggie burgers that's all about the vegetables. (Photo by Christina Heaston)
Spicy Peanut and Carrot Burgers. Peanut butter and a few fragrant aromatics serve to amplify and enhance the carrot, making this another one of those veggie burgers that’s all about the vegetables. (Photo by Christina Heaston)

Spicy Peanut and Carrot Burgers

Makes four 6-inch burgers

The headnote says: “This recipe helped me realize that coarsely shredding hardy vegetables, like carrots, is the secret to creating a vegetable-centric veggie burger — it preserves more of a vegetable’s texture than, say, roasting and puréeing it, and moreover it gives an interesting and varied texture to the finished burger. Peanut butter and a few fragrant aromatics serve to amplify and enhance the carrot, making this another one of those veggie burgers that’s all about the vegetables. A natural peanut butter will deliver a clean peanut flavor, whereas a processed one that has added sugar will be kind of cloying here. I love these paired with a zesty cabbage slaw or some shredded cabbage that’s tossed with a bit of salt and lime juice.”

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 scallions, green and white parts, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 serrano chile pepper, finely chopped (and seeded, if desired)

4 cups grated carrots (about 8 medium carrots)

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground coriander

¾ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 egg

2 tablespoons natural peanut butter

Zest of 1 lime and juice of ½

¼ cup roughly chopped cilantro

½ cup panko or coarse bread crumbs

Directions:

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large, lidded sauté pan over medium heat. Add the scallions and cook until they just begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, and chile and stir for 30 seconds, until fragrant. Stir in the carrots, salt, coriander, turmeric, and cinnamon. Cover and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the carrots are soft but not mushy.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the egg, peanut butter, lime zest and juice. Stir in the carrot mixture and the cilantro. Fold in the panko. Let stand for about 10 minutes, so the panko soaks up some of the moisture. Adjust seasonings. Shape into 4 patties, about 1/3 cup each.

To cook, warm a wide skillet over medium heat, then add the remaining oil. Add as many burgers as will fit comfortably without crowding the pan (usually 3 burgers will fit into a 10-inch, and cook until browned and crisped on the bottom, 5 to 7 minutes, then flip and repeat on the other side. The burgers will firm up a bit as they cook, and further once they’re removed from the heat and have cooled slightly. Serve warm.

Watermelon and Citrus Salad. Make this salad when watermelon is at its peak, sugar-sweet and juicy. (Photo by Evi Abeler)
Watermelon and Citrus Salad. Make this salad when watermelon is at its peak, sugar-sweet and juicy. (Photo by Evi Abeler)

Watermelon and Citrus Salad

Vegan, gluten free

Makes 4 servings

The headnote says: “Make this salad when watermelon is at its peak, sugar-sweet and juicy. I prefer basil to the fresh mint typically used in watermelon salad, but feel free to use mint instead.”

Ingredients:

Vinaigrette:

¼ cup fresh orange juice

Juice of 1 lime

1 tablespoon red or white wine vinegar

Mustard

1 shallot, sliced into rings

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

Directions:

To make the vinaigrette, combine the orange juice, lime juice, vinegar, mustard, shallot, salt and pepper in a small bowl or jar. Let stand for 10 minutes.

Salad:

2 oranges

6 cups watermelon, cut into 1-inch cubes

¾ cup thinly sliced fresh basil

½ cup toasted sliced or slivered almonds

½ cup crumbled feta cheese (optional)

Olive oil, for drizzling

Directions:

Slice off the top and bottom ends of the oranges and place the flat bottom on a cutting board. With a sharp chef ’s knife, cut off the peel in strips all the way around the orange, following the curve of the fruit. Slice the oranges into ¼-inch-thick rounds.

Arrange the watermelon and orange over a platter, then drizzle with the vinaigrette. Just before serving, garnish with the basil, almonds and feta cheese, if using, and drizzle with olive oil.

Recipes from “Veggie Burgers Every Which Way, Second Edition: Fresh, Flavorful, and Healthy Plant-Based Burgers — Plus Toppings, Sides, Buns, and More” by Lukas Volger, 2010, 2023. Reprinted by permission of the publisher, The Experiment. Available everywhere books are sold. Website: theexperimentpublishing.com.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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367763 2024-05-29T11:30:18+00:00 2024-05-29T11:30:44+00:00
Air fryer is one hot small kitchen appliance https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/05/20/air-fryer-is-one-hot-small-kitchen-appliance/ Mon, 20 May 2024 13:57:56 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=342635&preview=true&preview_id=342635 Do you know which small kitchen appliance is hot (pun intended) …Air fryers.

Walk down the kitchen section at any store, and you’ll see so many different models, sizes and versions with multiple features.

Why the popularity? Perhaps it is their ability to cook food quickly with the results being a crispy texture resembling deep-frying minus all the oil and calories. Perfect for health-conscious eaters.

They can be used to prepare an array of foods, even desserts such as fried Oreo cookies. Cleanup is a cinch as compared to deep fryers. The internet, with its plethora of air-frying cooking groups, contributes to the popularity of the device.

If space for yet another appliance is a concern, the combination air fryer might be what fits the bill. It integrates the utility of an air fryer with features of a toaster oven, broiler and convection oven.

When I went shopping for an air fryer, I originally thought, “Oh, why am I purchasing another gadget that will probably follow what happened with my hardly-used-bread maker. First, I stored it in the garage, thinking I might use it again…that never happened, so eventually I gave it away.”

That’s not the case here. I have been satisfied with the cooking results and have found recipes both online and in cookbooks that are easy to prepare, are healthy and have the texture and taste of many fried foods that I crave.

I purchased a combination air fryer for my parents, who were reluctant to use an air fryer. They have become fans and don’t use their traditional oven at all now.

In this article, found at https://cnb.cx/3UzpOnY, according to Nestle’s Adam Graves, nearly 60% of U.S. households own an air fryer. It also states, “In 2022, U.S. consumers spent nearly $1 billion buying air fryers, up 51% from 2019.” Perhaps this is not as much of a fad as some people might think given these numbers.

Complementing the growing interest in this cooking technique is the publishing of cookbooks dedicated to cooking with the appliance. Newly added to my collection is “I Love My Air Fryer Easy Recipes Book” by Robin Fields (2024, Adams Media, an imprint of Simon & Schuster, $17.99)

With 175 recipes, you’ll get the most out of your air fryer and create delicious dishes with minimal effort. The first chapter is an introduction to air fryer cooking, including how to choose just the right appliance to fit your needs.

The author writes: “Air fryers of at least 6 quarts are perfect for a family of four.”

Her recipes were developed and tested using this size with cooking temperatures between 320 and 400 degrees. You’ll learn what accessories to use to enhance your air frying experience. The recipes take 30 minutes or less using common ingredients.

“Use these recipes as a springboard, and always remember to let your creativity roam free in the kitchen,” she writes. “Season your dishes intuitively and swap out ingredients where it makes sense for your own preferences.”

Now, it is time get air frying with these recipes from the book.

For the recipe for Fried Oreos, go to https://bit.ly/4dUsaa3

Spinach and Feta Phyllo Cups: A creamy savory spinach filling meets a flaky phyllo shell in this simple and portable appetizer. (Photo by James Stefiuk)
Spinach and Feta Phyllo Cups: A creamy savory spinach filling meets a flaky phyllo shell in this simple and portable appetizer. (Photo by James Stefiuk)

Spinach and Feta Phyllo Cups

The headnote says: “A creamy savory spinach filling meets a flaky phyllo shell in this simple and portable appetizer. Cooked until browned and bubbling, each mouthwatering cup tastes as irresistible as it looks.”

Hands-on time: 10 minutes

Cook time: 7 minutes

Serves 5

Ingredients:

2 ounces cream cheese, softened

¼ cup crumbled feta cheese

1 cup loosely packed fresh spinach, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

¼ teaspoon salt

1 (1.9-ounce) package frozen mini phyllo shells

Directions:

Preheat air fryer to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, mix cream cheese, feta, spinach, garlic, red pepper flakes and salt until well combined.

Place 1 tablespoon of mixture in center of each phyllo cup. Place cups in air fryer basket. Cook 7 minutes, until cups are browned and spinach mixture is bubbling. Serve warm.

PER SERVING: CALORIES: 106 | FAT: 6g | SODIUM: 269mg | CARBOHYDRATES: 7g | FIBER: 0g | SUGAR: 1g | PROTEIN: 3g

Take full advantage of summer's freshest vegetables in Summer Vegetable Medley to serve alongside your meals. (Photo by James Stefiuk)
Take full advantage of summer’s freshest vegetables in Summer Vegetable Medley to serve alongside your meals. (Photo by James Stefiuk)

Summer Vegetable Medley

The headnote says: “Take full advantage of summer’s freshest vegetables by creating a bright blend to serve alongside your meals. This medley can even be made in bulk and frozen.

Hands-on time: 10 minutes

Cook time: 10 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 medium zucchini, cut into ½ -inch-thick slices

1 medium yellow summer squash, cut into ½-inch-thick slices

4 ounces cremini mushrooms (also called baby bellas), halved

1 cup small broccoli florets

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1/8  teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Directions:

Preheat air fryer to 350 degrees. Place zucchini, squash, mushrooms and broccoli in a large bowl. Drizzle olive oil over vegetables and sprinkle with salt, garlic powder, oregano, black pepper and red pepper flakes, then toss to coat.

Scrape coated vegetables into a 6 inch round baking pan, then place in air fryer basket. Cook 10 minutes, stirring twice during cooking time. When done, vegetables will be tender. Serve warm.

Freezer friendly: If you’re prepping this dish to freeze, reduce the cook time by 5 minutes. This will ensure that your vegetables do not overcook when you reheat them. Par cooking (partially cooking) will help remove some of the excess moisture from the vegetables and reduce ice crystal formation during freezing. To reheat from frozen, preheat the air fryer to 300 degrees and cook in a greased baking dish for 15 minutes, until warmed.

PER SERVING: CALORIES: 90 | FAT: 7g | SODIUM: 304mg | CARBOHYDRATES: 6g | FIBER: 2g | SUGAR: 3g | PROTEIN: 3g

Southern Dry-Rub Wings. Wings are one of the best air fryer dishes for beginners. They open your eyes to how truly crispy chicken can get without using a deep fryer. (Courtesy of James Stefiuk)
Southern Dry-Rub Wings. Wings are one of the best air fryer dishes for beginners. They open your eyes to how truly crispy chicken can get without using a deep fryer. (Courtesy of James Stefiuk)

Southern Dry-Rub Wings

The headnote says: “Wings are one of the best air fryer dishes for beginners. They open your eyes to how truly crispy chicken can get without using a deep fryer. These wings are seasoned simply, but you’ll be amazed at how deeply golden brown they get while staying juicy inside. Serve with raw sliced vegetables and your favorite dipping sauce.”

Hands-on time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 20 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 pounds chicken wings, flats and drums separated

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ teaspoon onion powder

1⁄8 teaspoon dried thyme

1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Directions:

Preheat air fryer to 400 degrees. Place wings in a large bowl and pat with a paper towel to remove excess moisture.

In a small bowl, mix salt, paprika, garlic powder, oregano, onion powder, thyme, and cayenne until well combined. Sprinkle spice mixture on top of wings and toss to coat evenly.

Place wings in air fryer basket and cook 20 minutes, shaking basket three times during cooking. When done, wings will be browned and have an internal temperature of at least 165 degrees. Serve warm.

PER SERVING: CALORIES: 452 | FAT: 29g | SODIUM: 754mg | CARBOHYDRATES: 1g | FIBER: 0g | SUGAR: 0g | PROTEIN: 42g

The sweet and sticky sauce infuses its flavor into Honey Lemon Pepper Shrimp while letting the seafood's natural taste shine. (Photo by James Stefiuk)
The sweet and sticky sauce infuses its flavor into Honey Lemon Pepper Shrimp while letting the seafood’s natural taste shine. (Photo by James Stefiuk)

Honey Lemon Pepper Shrimp

The headnote says: “The sweet and sticky sauce infuses its flavor into the shrimp while letting the seafood’s natural taste shine. Lemon pepper shrimp is a favorite of seafood lovers, and this recipe adds a sweet twist that makes it soar. For a spicy flair, try swapping with hot honey, which is infused with dried chili peppers and can be found at most grocery stores.”

Hands-on time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 8 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon sriracha

2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon lemon zest

1 pound uncooked medium shrimp, shelled and deveined (see note below)

¼ cup chopped green onions

Directions:

Preheat air fryer to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together honey, soy sauce, sriracha, garlic, salt, pepper and lemon zest until well combined.

Place shrimp in mixture and gently toss to coat. Place shrimp in air fryer basket in an even layer. Cook 8 minutes, turning 2/3 of the way through cooking time. When done, shrimp will be opaque pink and C-shaped, and internal temperature will be at least 145 degrees. Serve warm, garnished with green onions.

Raw shrimp: This recipe calls for raw shrimp that have the shells and main brown veins removed. Don’t use precooked shrimp for this recipe; raw shrimp will absorb flavor as they cook, but precooked shrimp won’t. So make sure to find the uncooked variety, which appear gray, never pink.

PER SERVING: CALORIES: 110 | FAT: 1g | SODIUM: 1,132mg | CARBOHYDRATES: 12g | FIBER: 0g | SUGAR: 10g | PROTEIN: 14g

Avocado-Topped Sweet Potato Slices. The crisp slicesperfectly complement the nutty qualities of avocado for a satisfying meal. (Photo by James Stefiuk)
Avocado-Topped Sweet Potato Slices. The crisp slicesperfectly complement the nutty qualities of avocado for a satisfying meal. (Photo by James Stefiuk)

Avocado-Topped Sweet Potato Slices

The headnote says: “This recipe is a fuss-free version of the sweet potato toast so many have come to love in the past several years. It features thick sweet potato slices coated with a smoky spice rub. The crisp slices perfectly complement the nutty qualities of avocado for a satisfying meal.”

Hands-on time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 15 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced lengthwise into 1⁄4-inch-thick ovals

1 teaspoon salt, divided

½ teaspoon chili powder

¼ teaspoon paprika

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

2 medium avocados, pitted, peeled, and mashed

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Directions:

Preheat air fryer to 380 degrees. Brush olive oil on both sides of each sweet potato slice. In a small bowl, mix ½ teaspoon salt, chili powder, paprika and garlic powder until well combined. Sprinkle mixture evenly on both sides of each sweet potato slice.

Place slices in air fryer basket and cook 15 minutes, turning halfway through cooking time. When done, sweet potato slices will be browned and tender.

In a small bowl, mix remaining ½ teaspoon salt with mashed avocados and spread evenly on top of each sweet potato slice. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes and serve.

PER SERVING: CALORIES: 225 | FAT: 13g | SODIUM: 628mg | CARBOHYDRATES: 25g | FIBER: 8g | SUGAR: 6g | PROTEIN: 3g

Recipes excerpted from The “I Love My Air Fryer Easy Recipes Book” by Robin Fields, reprinted with permission from Adams Media. Copyright 2024 by Simon & Schuster, LLC.

Photos by James Stefiuk

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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342635 2024-05-20T09:57:56+00:00 2024-06-03T14:11:29+00:00
Celebrate Cinco de Mayo with some tasty Mexican recipes https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/05/02/celebrate-cinco-de-mayo-with-some-tasty-mexican-recipes/ Thu, 02 May 2024 13:00:53 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=341690&preview=true&preview_id=341690 It is time for celebration …Cinco de Mayo is here. The day is a double celebration for me since it is also my birthday. When asked for my birth date throughout the year at the doctor’s office, pharmacy or wherever, Cinco de Mayo is quite often the topic of conversation.

The day celebrates Mexico’s victory over France at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862. The day is sometimes thought as being Mexico’s Independence Day, which it is not. Mexico’s independence from Spain is celebrated on Sept. 16.

What I find interesting is that it is believed the day is celebrated with more gusto here in the United States than in its native country, although it is a big celebration in Puebla. Here, it has become a celebration of Mexican heritage, culture and of course, food and drink; like how we recognize Irish culture on St. Patrick’s Day.

May 5 is a day on which many prepare Mexican-inspired fare for a party, and a batch of margaritas to wash it all down. This year, since it falls on a weekend, the celebration can start early! To help you make this year’s fiesta unique and mouth-watering, the party-perfect recipes below will do the trick.

For those who wish to go out and enjoy Mexican food and have some fun, restaurants, and not only Mexican ones, are planning festivities and menus that go beyond guacamole, chips and margaritas.

This title of an article (https://bit.ly/3Wiytxt) on Upworthy.com caught my attention: “Sorry Italian food lovers. America is about to have a new favorite ethnic food.”

It states, “According to Datassential, a Chicago-based market research firm, millennials (ages 27 to 42) rank Mexican food as their favorite ethnic cuisine over Italian, and Gen Z (ages 8 to 23) agrees, with Chinese in second and Italian in third.”

It is not true that all Mexican cuisine is very spicy and hot. I can attest to that, being very sensitive to both. The approach with any spice is to carefully add it to allow the flavors of the proteins and vegetables to shine.

Mexican food has evolved over the centuries with many influences, especially from the Aztec and Mayan civilizations. Mexico’s influence on the American food scene cannot be denied.

Tex-Mex is what many Americans believe authentic Mexican cuisine is because that’s what they have experienced in many chain restaurants, the usual suspects, tacos, fajitas and burritos. And yet, the cuisine goes way beyond these well-known delights.

My cooking inspiration comes from blogs, food manufacturers’ websites and, of course, cookbooks.

To help in my search for a Mexican dish or two to prepare, I perused my collection and selected “The Best Mexican Recipes: Kitchen-Tested Recipes Put the Real Flavors of Mexico Within Reach” by the editors of America’s Test Kitchen (2015, $29.99).

The book tells the story of Mexican cooking, considering the home kitchen and American supermarkets. What I found useful is the title’s recipes that include Mexico’s regional dishes, highlighting the ingredients from the varied climate and topography of the country.

For example, there are spicy fish preparations of the Yucatan as well as more rustic dishes from the north and complex moles of Puebla and Oaxaca. Don’t fret, in addition to the authentic dishes you probably haven’t seen in restaurants, there are many recipes that have been a part of what most think of as Mexican cuisine.

The introduction lists, and shows, the types of fresh and dried chilies, describes their appearance and flavor, provides substitutions and how to prepare them. The use of corn in its many forms (fresh corn, corn husks, corn meal, masa), a staple ingredient in Mexican cooking, is discussed.

How to use herbs, spices, fruits and vegetables plus other ingredients in Mexican cooking is explained. In the “Building Blocks of Mexican Cooking” pages, tips such as making sauces, using marinades and rubs, cooking with tortillas and finishing and serving are helpful in preparing the recipes.

This Cinco de Mayo, why not recreate some of your favorite Mexican dishes at home, and while you’re at it expand your repertoire to include a little-known authentic and tantalizing dish you rarely see north of the border. Check out these recipes from the book to help prepare your Cinco de Mayo celebration.

For the recipe for beef taco salad, visit https://bit.ly/2yEDlo4.

Seared Shrimp With Tomatoes and Avocado

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 pound tomatoes, cored, seeded and cut into ½-inch pieces

6 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced thin

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro

3 garlic cloves, minced

1-2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce

Salt and pepper

1 ½ pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled and deveined

1/8 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

1 tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving

1 avocado, halved, pitted, and diced

Directions:

Toss tomatoes, scallion whites, cilantro, garlic, chipotle and ¾ teaspoon salt together in a bowl. In a separate bowl, toss shrimp with sugar, ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of shrimp to pan in single layer and cook, without moving them, until spotty brown on 1 side, about 1 minute. Transfer shrimp to large bowl (they will be underdone).

Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining shrimp.

Return now-empty skillet to high heat, add tomato mixture and lime juice and cook until tomatoes are slightly softened, about 1 minute. Stir in shrimp along with any accumulated juices and cook until shrimp are cooked through and hot, about 1 minute. Transfer shrimp to large platter and sprinkle with avocado and scallion greens. Serve with lime wedges.

Serve Shrimp and Lime Ceviche as an appetizer with crunchy tortilla chips or use as a topping for tostadas. (Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)
Serve Shrimp and Lime Ceviche as an appetizer with crunchy tortilla chips or use as a topping for tostadas. (Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen)

Shrimp and Lime Ceviche

Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped fine

½ cup lemon juice (3 lemons)

1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded and minced

1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus ½ cup juice (4 limes)

1 garlic clove, minced

Salt and pepper

1 pound extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled, deveined, tails removed, and halved lengthwise

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 scallions, sliced thin

3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

½ teaspoon sugar

Directions:

Combine tomato, lemon juice, jalapeño, lime zest and juice, garlic and ½ teaspoon salt in medium bowl. Stir in shrimp, cover and refrigerate until shrimp are firm and opaque throughout, 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring halfway through refrigerating.

Drain shrimp mixture in colander, leaving shrimp slightly wet, and transfer to serving bowl. Stir in oil, scallions, cilantro and sugar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

Although not a traditional Mexican dish, the recipe for 7-Layer Dip uses many flavors and ingredients to create a party-worthy appetizer. (Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)
Although not a traditional Mexican dish, the recipe for 7-Layer Dip uses many flavors and ingredients to create a party-worthy appetizer. (Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen)

7-Layer Dip

Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

4 large tomatoes, cored, seeded and chopped fine

6 scallions (2 minced; 4, green parts only, sliced thin)

2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeded and minced

3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons lime juice (2 limes)

Salt

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained but not rinsed

2 garlic cloves, minced

¾ teaspoon chili powder

1 pound pepper Jack cheese, shredded (4 cups)

1½ cups sour cream

1 recipe Chunky Guacamole (recipe below)

Directions:

Combine tomatoes, minced scallions, jalapeños, cilantro, 2 tablespoons lime juice and ⅛ teaspoon salt in bowl. Let sit until tomatoes begin to soften, about 30 minutes. Drain mixture, discard liquid and return to bowl.

Meanwhile, pulse beans, garlic, chili powder, remaining 2 teaspoons lime juice and ⅛ teaspoon salt in food processor to coarse paste, about 15 pulses. Spread bean mixture evenly in 8-inch square baking dish or 1-quart glass bowl.

In a clean, dry food processor bowl, pulse 2½ cups pepper jack and sour cream until smooth, about 15 pulses. Spread pepper jack–sour cream mixture evenly over bean layer. Top evenly with remaining 1½ cups pepper jack, followed by guacamole and, finally, drained tomato mixture. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours; bring to room temperature before serving.) Sprinkle with sliced scallion greens before serving. Serve with tortilla chips.

Chunky Guacamole

Makes about 3 cups

Ingredients:

3 ripe avocados

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro

1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 garlic cloves, minced

Salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Directions:

Halve 1 avocado, remove pit and scoop flesh into medium bowl. All cilantro, jalapeno, onion, lime juice, garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt and cumin and mash with potato masher (or fork) until mostly smooth.

Halve, pit and dice remaining 2 avocados. Add cubes to bowl with mashed avocado mixture and gently mash until mixture is well combined but still coarse. (Guacamole can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours with plastic wrap pressed directly against its surface). Season with salt before serving.

Corn and Black Bean Tortilla Tart

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2½ cups fresh or thawed frozen corn

2 large plum tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch pieces

4 scallions, sliced thin

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon lime juice

Salt and pepper

1 onion, chopped fine

1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed

¾ cup vegetable broth

4 (10-inch) flour tortillas

1 ½ cups cheddar cheese, shredded

½ cup queso fresco, crumbled

Directions:

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add corn and cook, stirring occasionally, until kernels begin to brown and pop, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to large bowl and let cool slightly. Stir in tomatoes, scallions, 1 tablespoon cilantro, and lime juice and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Wipe skillet clean with paper towels. Add 1 tablespoon oil and onion to skillet and cook over medium heat until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in jalapeño, garlic and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in beans and broth and cook until liquid has nearly evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer mixture to large bowl and mash beans with potato masher until mostly smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Line rimless or inverted baking sheet with parchment paper. Lightly brush both sides of tortillas with remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Place 1 tortilla on prepared sheet. Spread one-quarter of mashed beans over top, leaving ½ inch border around edge. Sprinkle with one-quarter of corn mixture, one-quarter of cheddar, and one-quarter of queso fresco. Repeat with remaining tortillas, beans, corn, cheddar and queso fresco to make layered tart.

Bake tart until cheese is melted and slightly brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool on sheet for 5 minutes, then slide onto cutting board using parchment; discard parchment. Sprinkle remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro over top. Cut into wedges and serve.

Recipes courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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341690 2024-05-02T09:00:53+00:00 2024-05-02T09:33:20+00:00
Explore Tampa, Fla., for a summer getaway https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/04/21/explore-tampa-fla-for-a-summer-getaway/ Sun, 21 Apr 2024 09:00:37 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=340852&preview=true&preview_id=340852 Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett, co-founder and co-host of Worth Tasting, contributed to this column.

Summer travel plans are in the making. A summer vacation in Tampa, Fla. … why not? With these accolades, it makes it the perfect area to explore.

• Tampa Bay is 2023’s sevent-best summer travel destination (WalletHub)

• Tampa was awarded one of the Best Places to Travel (Money)

• Three Tampa neighborhoods were ranked in the top 10 of the 2024 list of Best Places to live in America. (Niche)

• Tampa was named the 12th “Most Fun Cities in America.” (WalletHub)

• Tampa Riverwalk was voted second-best Riverwalk in the U.S. (USA Today)

• Tampa was named one of the greatest places in the world (TIME)

• Tampa ranks among the Top 10 cities to visit with kids (Tampa Bay Business Journal)

• Tampa Bay area ranked as best spot to take a vacation with your pet (Tampa Bay Times)

And, for culinary enthusiasts…

• Tampa is first among unexpectedly awesome coffee cities (Livability)

• Tampa was 2022’s eighth-best Foodie City in America (WalletHub)

• Tampa is 2022’s eighth-best City for Vegans and Vegetarians (WalletHub)

• With all of this notoriety would you believe…Tampa was named one of the 15 U.S. tourist hotspots nobody cared about 15 years ago (Orbitz).

Recently, I wrote about the Hyde Park area of the city: https://bit.ly/3Uhgqqg.

Today, I’ll be highlighting the Midtown district experience.

Sometimes the best vacation spots offer the optimal combination of convenience and neighborhood vibe. And when location is important, oftentimes the middle of it all fits the bill.

Panoramic views of the Downtown Tampa from the rooftop at the Aloft Hotel (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)
Panoramic views of the Downtown Tampa from the rooftop at the Aloft Hotel (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)

Such is the case with Midtown Tampa, and the Aloft Hotel, one of two anchor hotels (Element Hotel is adjacent) in the district. When you’re in Midtown, most of what visitors would want to do in Tampa is drivable within 5 to 15 minutes.

An oasis awaits at the rooftop pool at the Aloft Hotel. (Courtesy of Stephen Fries)

On the “campus” of Midtown Tampa, there’s great shopping, strolling, sipping and dining options (more on this later). The highlight here for us is Sal Y Mar, the glittering gem of a restaurant and bar perched upon the oasis on the rooftop of the Aloft Hotel.

Sal y Mar, The rooftop restaurant at The Aloft serves up a heavenly flan. (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)
Sal Y Mar, the rooftop restaurant at The Aloft, serves up a heavenly flan. (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)

It’s from here that one can clearly understand both the layout of this district, and its proximity relative to downtown Tampa, with its fabulously diverse neighborhoods.

This curated neighborhood has a uniquely interesting dynamic. Pretty quickly, we came to catch the staycation vibe that it gives off between the hundreds of luxe apartments to the hotels, vibrant culinary scene, entertainment, spas, coffee shops, boutiques and retailers like REI, a Seattle based, outdoor gear company that pioneered the industry.

Here in Midtown people live and work, stay and play, all threading themselves in and around, across and between, these Midtown establishments.

Basing your Tampa vacation here makes it convenient to all the Bay-area attractions. Additionally, it’s the perfect place to simply enjoy what Midtown has to offer — on foot without a car.

One of the fun pieces of artwork around the commons at Midtown Tampa. (Courtesy of Stephen Fries)
One of the fun pieces of artwork around the commons at Midtown Tampa. (Courtesy of Stephen Fries)

Sunshine and sunset markets, yoga and aerobics, plus other fun and health-focused activities in The Commons; you’ll see there’s enough to do right here. After some activity, plunge into the rooftop pool at the Aloft while you soak in some sunshine. You’ll enjoy the panoramic views while sipping on your favorite beverage from the poolside snack bar.

You won’t want to miss a dining experience or two at Sal Y Mar, the hotel’s well-respected, and renowned, rooftop restaurant and lounge, which welcomes both hotel guests and locals.

The Tulum (a Mexican coastal town)-inspired restaurant and menu boasts Tampa Bay views from the covered terrace, if you choose alfresco dining, or via the window wall from inside its inviting and relaxing interior.

Surf and Turf mofongo, a delectable dish served at Sal Y Mar. (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)

Heading up the culinary team is Executive Chef Johnathan Rodriguez, who received the Best Chef Award at Savor St. Pete Food & Wine Festival in 2022 and 2023 in addition to the Taste of Clearwater’s Chef Inspired Award among other accolades.

He gives credit to the chefs at the Michelin- grade restaurants where he’s previously worked, who have influenced and inspired his brilliant attention to detail, and various flavor profiles savored today by guests of Sal Y Mar.

Our Sal Y Mar experience began with the award-winning Tuna Tataki (ahi tuna, soy caviar, wakame, wasabi aioli, fried wonton, pickled ginger, sesame seeds). The seafood trio that followed our entrée includes a lobster crab cake (lump crab meat, lobster, mustard sauce, melted heirloom tomato), a huge and delectable grilled scallop and pan seared shrimp prepared with white wine and herb butter alongside grilled radicchio, drizzled with ginger lime sauce and chimichurri rice. And yes, it is as tantalizing to the palate as it sounds.

To top-off this seafood extravaganza, mouthwatering Cinnamon Churros arrived, complete with caramel dipping sauce… ”the icing on the cake.” We couldn’t resist the Sal Y Mar Flan, well worth the indulgence.

For those into beef, the Sal Y Mar Tomahawk Experience should fit the bill…a 32–34-ounce ginormous, bone-in steak, truffle oil, chimichurri sauce, Maldon salt …enough for two or three. Too big?…. the 6 -ounce filet mignon, a 16-ounce ribeye, or Australian rack of lamb are other meat-eater options.

Chef Johnathan shared two recipes. The award-winning Tuna Tataki recipe is at https://stephenfries.com/recipes. The Prime New York Steak With Truffle Burrata Mash and Sautéed Broccolini is below.

Quinoa bowl at Kale Me Crazy, a super food cafe on the commons at Midtown Tampa. (Courtesy of Stephen Fries)
Quinoa bowl at Kale Me Crazy, a super food cafe on the commons at Midtown Tampa. (Courtesy of Stephen Fries)

The 20 acres that comprise Midtown Tampa are jam packed with everything from a fast-casual, superfood eatery called Kale Me Crazy (so fresh and satisfying) to the comfort and familiarity of a Shake Shack amid so many more diverse and delicious culinary spots to experience. We ate at and tried almost all of them.

From the Louisiana-inspired Gumbo and Ragin’ Red Fish With Creole sauce at Walk-On’s Sports Bistreaux to the delectable, fresh trout at True Food Kitchen, there’s a food place sure to please any palate.

The jewel-looking “works of art” at William Dean Chocolates “excite the eye and intrigue the palate” One of the many shops around the commons at Midtown Tampa. (Courtesy of Stephen Fries)

Between our many meals, we made time for a great cup of coffee and sweet treat at Joffrey’s Coffee & Tea Co., extraordinarily luscious and unforgettable truffles at William Dean Chocolates and tasty, fresh salads at the Whole Foods “on campus.”

Two extremely busy places to which we couldn’t secure reservations looked sublime and are high on our next time list; both Sunda Tampa Southeast Asian and Ponte Modern American, owned by Chef Chris Ponte of the iconic Ponte Grill, formerly in nearby Clearwater.

Unfortunately, time ran out before we could sink our teeth into some very amazing-looking pasta dishes we saw coming to guests’ tables while strolling by BellaBrava Tampa, right around the corner.

Prime New York Steak With Truffle Burrata Mash and Sautéed Broccolini

Servings: 2

Ingredients:

Steak:

2 prime New York strips

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Olive oil to coat pan

2 tablespoon butter

1 bunch thyme

3 garlic cloves, smashed

Directions:

Pat steaks dry. Season with the salt and pepper on both sides. Heat your choice of pan with oil over medium-high, then place the steak in when the oil is hot. Sear for 3 to 4 minutes on both sides and don’t forget the edges about a minute on those.

Turn the heat down to medium and add the butter, thyme and garlic smash, basting that sauce over the steaks until the internal temperature is 140 degrees. Remove the steak from heat and let the steaks rest to reach a perfect medium steak temperature.

Burrata Truffle Mash:

4 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

Kosher salt

4 tablespoons truffle oil

1/3 cup heavy cream

4 tablespoons butter

¼ cup whole milk

2 balls burrata

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Fill a large pot with cold water. Season with 2 tablespoon kosher salt and carefully add the potatoes.  Gently boil potatoes over medium heat for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the potatoes. Return the drained potatoes back to the pot and, using a potato masher or hand mixer, whip the potatoes until mashed.

Add the truffle oil, cream, butter and milk to the potatoes and whip until light and fluffy. Pull the burrata cheese into pieces and add to the potato mash. Mix in with a spoon until melted. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Use the reserved potato cooking water to thin the potatoes to get a very creamy texture, if necessary.

Sauteéd Broccolini:

1 bunch broccolini (about 5 ounces), washed trimmed, halved lengthwise (if thick)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

¼  cup of white wine

2 tablespoons butter

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Cut off and discard the dried ends of the broccolini stems. Cut the broccolini in a bias or thick medallion. Then heat your choice of pan and add the olive oil until it reaches medium heat. Add minced garlic, white wine and cook for 30 seconds to infuse the flavor and to reduce the wine, add the broccolini and a little salt and pepper.

Stir occasionally, for 2 minutes, creating steam in the pan to help the broccolini stems soften. Add a couple tablespoons of water and butter and cover the pan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook covered for 2 to 4 minutes until the veggies are tender and bright green.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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340852 2024-04-21T05:00:37+00:00 2024-04-21T05:01:13+00:00
Popularity of grains, beans is growing https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/04/07/popularity-of-grains-beans-is-growing/ Sun, 07 Apr 2024 09:00:57 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=339932&preview=true&preview_id=339932 While dining out during a recent trip, I noticed that the restaurants had several dishes where beans and grains were mentioned in the item’s name or description. Looking at some old menus in my archives, it was rare to see items with beans and grains mentioned. Today, in the United States, their popularity is growing by leaps and bounds.

There are many reasons: health benefits, affordability, interest in plant-based diets, cultural influences, many grains are gluten-free, sustainability and versatility.

Talking about versatility; brownies made with black beans (they’re quite good, and people won’t know what the secret ingredient is), burgers made with a variety of beans, bean-based dips (have you tried a dessert hummus  with chocolate as an ingredient?), grains in salads and soups, grains such as quinoa and oats in smoothies as well as grains and beans in those popular breakfast and lunch bowls.

All it takes is creativity to prepare nutritious and flavorful dishes using beans and grains in recipes.

A staple in many cuisines around the globe, especially China, Mexico, India and Brazil, beans and grains have been nourishing the world for thousands of years.

Did you know?

• Lentils were eaten 13,000 years ago in the Middle East.

• Beans are considered symbols of good luck and prosperity in many cultures. In regions in the United States, it is customary to eat black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day. They are eaten at Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year as a symbol of a prosperous year ahead. A good friend from Brazil prepares lentils on New Year’s Eve, symbolizing wealth and good fortune, his culture’s tradition he continues here in the U.S.

• Beans come in all shapes, colors and sizes, and come in thousands of varieties.

• Quinoa (a complete protein on its own), farro, spelt and amaranth are ancient grains that have gained popularity due to their health and nutritional benefits. They were part of the diet of ancient civilizations. Everything old is new again!

• Rice, millet, sorghum, buckwheat and rice are among the gluten-free grains, the perfect option for those with diet restrictions.

My goal to include more beans and grains in my diet led me to getting a copy of “The Complete Beans & Grains Cookbook: A Comprehensive Guide with 450+ Recipes,” by the editors of America’s Test Kitchen (2024, $34.99)

And complete it is…. before presenting the recipes, there is an in-depth discussion about beans. You’ll learn about common beans vs. heirloom beans, colors and flavors. There is a compilation of two dozen dried beans used in the recipes. Each bean is discussed in detail, including tasting notes and the recipes they are used in.

From here you’ll master how to cook dried beans resulting in the perfect flavor and texture. For those who prefer to use the convenience of canned beans, that’s covered, too. This is followed by a primer about lentils, a member of the legume family as well as other legumes such as fava beans, green beans, peanuts and soybean varieties.

Then, it’s onto grains: common, whole and heirloom. Twenty-one grains are discussed in detail, plus which recipes they are used in. Then, how to cook grains along with a helpful chart to keep handy. The next section is about varieties of rice used in the recipes along with a rice cooking chart. Concluding the introduction is the equipment that was tested by the test kitchen to cook beans, grains and rice.

Along with the signature headnotes, for which America’s Test Kitchen is known, the recipes that call for heirloom bean and grain varieties that might be more difficult to find, and a-bit-more-expensive, substitutions for a common grocery store alternative, are given. In a hurry…recipes that can be prepared in 45 minutes or less are flagged.

The editors said:“ Even if you are an old hand at cooking beans and grains, there are hundreds of inventive recipes waiting for you. There are traditional recipes for Hoppin’ John, Tacu Tacu and Adasi. There are comfort classics including New England Baked Beans, Ribollita and Arroz con Pollo. There are celebratory dinners such as Chickpea Bouillabaisse, Kibbeh bil Sanieh and Plov.

Let’s get started with these recipes ….

Nutty, earthy farro is one of the fastest-cooking whole grains around, and it works to make the perfect good-for-you Farro Salad With Roasted Eggplant. (Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)
Nutty, earthy farro is one of the fastest-cooking whole grains around, and it works to make the perfect good-for-you Farro Salad With Roasted Eggplant. (Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen)

Farro Salad with Roasted Eggplant

Serves: 4 to 6

Total time: 1¼ hours

The headnote says: “Why this recipe works: Nutty, earthy farro is one of the fastest-cooking whole grains around, and it works to make the perfect good-for-you grain salad. While the farro cooks, we broil cubed eggplant until it’s nice and brown, which brings essential meatiness and savory, caramelized flavor to the salad. A hefty amount of jarred, roasted red peppers add sweetness and extra veggie goodness.

“Once the farro is cooled, we toss everything together with thinly sliced scallions and a lemony dressing that permeates the whole dish. Do not use pearl, quick-cooking, or pre-steamed farro (check the ingredient list on the package to determine this) in place of the whole farro.”

Ingredients:

1½ cups whole farro

½ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking farro

1½ pounds eggplant, cut into ½‑inch pieces

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

1½ cups jarred roasted red peppers, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into ½‑inch pieces

3 scallions, sliced thin

¼ teaspoon pepper

Directions:

1. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add farro and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until grains are tender with slight chew, 15 to 30 minutes. Drain farro, spread onto rimmed baking sheet, and let cool for 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, toss eggplant with 3 tablespoons oil, then transfer to aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and spread into even layer. Broil eggplant until well browned, 15 to 17 minutes, stirring halfway through.

3. Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons oil and lemon zest and juice together in large bowl. Add cooled farro, eggplant, red peppers, scallions, pepper, and salt and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

Buckwheat Tabbouleh features bulgur parsley, mint and chopped tomatoes tossed in a bright lemon vinaigrette, classic Mediterranean tabbouleh has a refreshing flavor profile that makes it a great light side. (Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)
Buckwheat Tabbouleh features bulgur parsley, mint and chopped tomatoes tossed in a bright lemon vinaigrette, classic Mediterranean tabbouleh has a refreshing flavor profile that makes it a great light side. (Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen)

Buckwheat Tabbouleh

Serves: 4

Total time: 35 minutes, plus 45 minutes cooling and resting

The headnote says: “Why this recipe works: Featuring bulgur (a product of the wheat berry), parsley, mint and chopped tomatoes tossed in a bright lemon vinaigrette, classic Mediterranean tabbouleh has a refreshing flavor profile that makes it a great light side. To give this classic our own spin, we swap the bulgur for another grain: mild, appealingly earthy, buckwheat groats.

“Because buckwheat contains a fair amount of starch, we make sure to cook it pasta-style in plenty of water; the water washes away the excess starch, producing separate, evenly cooked ­kernels. For the herbs, we add plenty of fresh, peppery parsley; 1½ cups has just enough of a presence to balance well with ½ cup of fresh mint. To ensure undiluted, bright flavor in the final tabbouleh, we salt the tomatoes to rid them of excess moisture before tossing them into the salad.”

Ingredients:

¾ cup buckwheat groats, rinsed

½ teaspoon table salt, divided, plus salt for cooking buckwheat

3 tomatoes, cored and cut into ½-inch pieces

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Pinch cayenne pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1½ cups minced fresh parsley

½ cup minced fresh mint

2 scallions, sliced thin

Directions:

1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Stir in buckwheat and 2 teaspoons salt. Return to boil, then reduce to simmer and cook until tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain well. Spread buckwheat on rimmed baking sheet and let cool for 15 minutes. (Buckwheat can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 2 days.)

2. Meanwhile, toss tomatoes with ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl. Transfer to fine-mesh strainer, set strainer in bowl, and let sit for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally.

3. Whisk lemon juice, cayenne, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Whisking constantly, drizzle in oil.

4. Add drained tomatoes, cooled buckwheat, parsley, mint, and scallions and gently toss to combine. Cover and let sit at room temperature until flavors meld, at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. Toss to recombine and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

Corn Pudding is a rustic, souffle-like casserole. (Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)
Corn Pudding is a rustic, souffle-like casserole. (Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen)

Corn Pudding

Serves: 6 to 8

Total time: 1 hour

The headnote says: “Why this recipe works: Recipes for this rustic, soufflé­like casserole, a traditional part of many a Thanksgiving spread, often call for boxed corn muffin mix and canned cream corn, but here we opt for a fresher take. We swap out the creamed corn for frozen corn kernels, which have a better texture and more flavor than canned. To ensure a silky base brimming with the flavor of sweet corn, we buzz some of the kernels with cream in a blender.

“In place of the boxed muffin mix, we simply combine flour, cornmeal, salt, sugar, and a touch of baking soda; for rich flavor and light texture, we add sour cream and melted butter. Baking the mixture for 35 minutes in a 400-degree oven sets the pudding without drying it out.”

Ingredients:

1 pound frozen corn

¾ cup heavy cream

½ cup (2½ ounces) all-purpose flour

⅓ cup (1⅔ ounces) cornmeal

¼ cup (1¾ ounces) sugar

1¼ teaspoons table salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup sour cream

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Directions:

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Grease 8-inch square baking dish. Combine corn and ¼ cup water in microwave-safe bowl. Cover and microwave until corn is tender, about 7 minutes. Drain corn.

2. Combine cream and 1½ cups corn in blender and process until coarse puree forms, about 30 seconds. Whisk flour, cornmeal, sugar, salt, and baking soda together in large bowl. Whisk sour cream, melted butter, egg, pureed corn mixture, and remaining corn together in separate bowl. Whisk sour cream mixture into flour mixture until combined. Transfer batter to prepared dish.

3. Bake until edges of pudding are lightly browned and top is slightly puffed, about 35 minutes. Let cool on wire rack for 10 minutes. Serve warm.

Recipes courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

 

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339932 2024-04-07T05:00:57+00:00 2024-04-07T05:01:29+00:00
Maple syrup is a delicious natural sweetener https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/03/24/maple-syrup-is-a-delicious-natural-sweetener/ Sun, 24 Mar 2024 09:00:07 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=338954&preview=true&preview_id=338954 It is one of the sweetest times of the year. Why? It is maple sugaring month. Although we think of maple as a fall flavor, this is the season when the hard work takes place at sugarhouses.

The sap begins to flow from sugar-maple trees when days are warmer and nights are still cool. The back-and-forth change in temperature is required to create the necessary pressure.

When visiting a sugarhouse in the Catskill Mountains of New York to pick up a gallon of syrup, it was not production time. However, the owner gave me a brief tour of the facility, and I got to view the sophisticated equipment. I will be returning, as it is customary for sugarhouses to invite visitors to see the seasonal process in action.

The intricate steps result in a delectable, natural sweetener. For these rural producers, there are economic benefits where sugar maples are in abundance. If you have not been to a festival celebrating maple sugaring month, do attend one. It’s fun for the entire family.

Enjoy the rustic, natural setting while learning about the different grades and tasting both syrups and maple-flavored treats. I even sweeten my morning coffee with the liquid amber gold. Supporting local agriculture and small business is the syrup on the pancake!

You have probably heard of wine, beer and distillery trails. Well, Pennsylvania has a trail called “Tapped: A Maple Trail.” Check it out at https://bit.ly/48Yk0ty.

Check out these links for more maple sugaring events: https://bit.ly/2CrHpXO and https://bit.ly/3wNW5Q7.

Maple syrup 101

• It takes about 40 gallons of sap to make 1 gallon of maple syrup.

• It comes in color-based grades.

• Canada is the largest maple producer in the world, followed by the United States.

• Vermont is the largest producer in the United States, producing more than 2.55 million gallons of syrup in 2022. This represents more than half of the output in the U.S., followed by New York, Maine, Wisconsin, Michigan, Pennsylvania and New Hampshire.

• According to PA Route 6 Alliance, Patterson Maple Farm in Westfield, Tioga County, is the largest maple producer in the state with 83,000 taps.

• Maple syrup production occurs in a brief period, usually about 40 days, based on the weather.

• A maple tree is usually at least 30 years old and 12 inches in diameter before it is tapped.

• Use maple syrup to sweeten your coffee or tea. It is packed with antioxidants and minerals.

• Breweries are using maple syrup as an ingredient to create beer.

• According to Wikipedia, “Maple syrup was first made by the Indigenous people of North America.”

Cooking with maple syrup

People enjoy cooking with maple syrup for several reasons: the flavor, nutritional/health benefits, versatility and natural sweetness. When I say maple syrup, I mean the real thing, not the high-fructose, corn syrup laden product with artificial coloring and many hard-to pronounce chemical-sounding ingredients.

I cannot explain why some people think that “imposter” syrup is the real thing, or worse yet, think it tastes like maple syrup. When visiting my parents and we go out for breakfast, they often order pancakes and request sugar-free pancake syrup. Yes, I cringe, knowing the not-so-good ingredients it contains. I appreciate it when a restaurant does have maple syrup, the real thing, even if they have an upcharge for it.

There are a plethora of books written about maple sugaring, becoming a backyard hobbyist, the science and history and cooking with maple syrup. Think way beyond pancakes!

“Maple Syrup: 40 Tried & True Recipes,” by Corrine Kozlak (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)

“Maple Syrup: 40 Tried & True Recipes,” by Corrine Kozlak (2020, Adventure Publications, $16.95), https://bit.ly/3sOYSTR, goes beyond just recipes. Kozlak gives a brief history of maple syrup and discusses how it is produced and graded.

And, if you have access to a sugar maple that is at least 12 inches in diameter, the “Do-It-Yourself Maple Syruping or Backyard Sugaring” pages tell you what equipment is needed, plus when and how to tap the trees, as well as how the sap becomes syrup.

The maple syrup cooking tips will come in handy. There are recipes for bread and breakfast, savory entrees, sides, appetizers, and beverages in addition to sweets and desserts.

Celebrate Maple Sugaring Month and prepare a recipe share by Kozlak. For the recipe for Maple Leaf Cocktail, visit https://bit.ly/3Vl2IDo.

Best Basic Buttermilk Pancakes

Makes 12–16 pancakes

Ingredients:

2 cups all-purpose flour (gluten-free flour may be substituted)

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon kosher salt

2 cups buttermilk

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Vegetable oil

Toppings: softened butter, warm maple syrup, fresh fruit

Directions:

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; make a well in center of mixture.

In a large glass measuring cup, whisk buttermilk, eggs, 2 tablespoons melted butter and lemon juice to combine. Pour buttermilk mixture into well of flour mixture; gently combine. (A few lumps are desired.) Let batter rest 10 minutes.

Heat griddle to 375 degrees or a nonstick pan to medium-high heat. Add a thin layer of oil and butter to the hot surface. Pour ¼ cup batter onto griddle for each pancake; cook until top is bubbly and edges are slightly dry, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Serve hot with desired toppings.

The author's dad requested this recipe for Oatmeal Bed and Breakfast Pancakes from one where he stayed. (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)
The author’s dad requested this recipe for Oatmeal Bed and Breakfast Pancakes from one where he stayed. (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)

Oatmeal B&B Pancakes

The headnote says: “This recipe was given to me by my dad, the chief pancake maker in our house, where pancakes were a Saturday morning ritual. He first tasted them at a bed and breakfast in Vancouver, Canada, where he asked for the recipe. This is my slightly adapted version.”

Makes 12 pancakes

Ingredients:

1 cup old-fashioned oats

1 cup whole-wheat flour

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons butter, chilled

2 cups buttermilk

2 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Vegetable oil

3 cups blueberries, divided

1 cup maple syrup

Directions:

In the bowl of a food processor with a metal blade, process oats 45 seconds. Add flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder and salt; pulse to combine. Sprinkle cold butter pieces on top, and process until mixture forms coarse crumbs.  Transfer to a large bowl; make a well in center of mixture.

In a large glass measuring cup, whisk buttermilk, eggs and vanilla to combine. Pour buttermilk mixture into well of flour mixture and gently combine. (A few lumps are desired.)

Brush a large nonstick griddle or skillet with oil; bring to medium-high heat. Pour ¼ cup batter onto griddle for each pancake; cook until top is bubbly, and edges are slightly dry, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side.

Meanwhile, cook 1½ cups blueberries with maple syrup in a small saucepan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Mash cooked blueberries and strain syrup. Stir in remaining 1½ cups whole blueberries. Serve warm over pancakes.

Maple Syrup-Glazed Bacon is a sweet-salt-fat combination that takes beloved bacon to greater heights. It makes a fun garnish for a Bloody Mary. (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)
Maple Syrup-Glazed Bacon is a sweet-salt-fat combination that takes beloved bacon to greater heights. It makes a fun garnish for a Bloody Mary. (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)

Maple Syrup-Glazed Bacon

The headnote says: “This sweet-salt-fat combination takes beloved bacon to greater heights. The neat and tasty technique makes bacon a stand-alone buffet item or a fun garnish for a Bloody Mary.”

Makes 12 pieces

Ingredients:

1 pound thick-sliced bacon

3 tablespoons maple syrup

Directions:

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a heavy rimmed half-sheet pan or jelly roll pan with aluminum foil.

Spread bacon flat on prepared pan. Bake 20 minutes. Remove cooked bacon to paper towels; discard bacon grease from baking sheet. Place an oven-safe cooling rack on baking pan. Place cooked bacon on rack, and brush one side lightly with maple syrup. Bake 10 minutes or until syrup has caramelized and bacon is cooked to desired crispness.

.

Best Maple Banana Bread is a great way to use overripe bananas that many of us keep in our freezers. (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)
Best Maple Banana Bread is a great way to use overripe bananas that many of us keep in our freezers. (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)

Best Maple Banana Bread

The headnote says: “This moist banana bread started as a recipe submitted to the Chicago Tribune. It has evolved over the years, and I have added a delicious maple glaze to make it even better. This is a great use for those overripe bananas that many of us keep in our freezers!”

Makes 6 mini-loaves or 2 (9-by 5-inch) loaves

Ingredients:

Bread:

3½ cups plus 1 tablespoon

All-purpose flour, divided

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 cups chopped walnuts or pecans

2 cups light brown sugar, firmly packed

4 large eggs

1¼ cups canola oil

1 (8-ounce) container sour cream

1 tablespoon maple extract

3 cups (about 8 large) very ripe

Bananas, mashed with a fork

Glaze:

¼ cup butter

½ cup maple syrup

½ teaspoon maple extract

1 cup powdered sugar, sifted

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease 2 (9-by 5-inch) loaf pans or 6 mini-loaf pans; line with parchment or wax paper.

To make bread, whisk together 3½ cups flour, baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon in a large bowl. In a medium bowl, toss nuts in the remaining 1  tablespoon flour.

Place brown sugar in the bowl of a stand-up electric mixer; add eggs, one at a time, mixing on slow speed until combined. With mixer running, add oil. Add sour cream and 1 table-spoon maple extract, mixing until combined.

Add half flour mixture to brown sugar mixture; stir in mashed bananas. Stir in remaining half flour mixture and flour-coated nuts. Pour batter into prepared pans, filling ¾ full; smooth tops.

Bake 70 to 80 minutes (less for small pans) until bread rises and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool.

To make glaze, melt butter in a small pan over medium heat; stir in maple syrup. Stir while boiling for 2 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in ½ teaspoon maple extract. Add powdered sugar; whisk until smooth. Stir 3 to 5 minutes or until mixture begins to thicken and cool slightly. Drizzle over bread.

Maple-Teriyaki Marinade helps to tenderize meat, while giving it a sweet-salty onion flavor. It works nicely with skirt steak as well. (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)
Maple-Teriyaki Marinade helps to tenderize meat, while giving it a sweet-salty onion flavor. It works nicely with skirt steak as well. (Photo by Kevin Scott Ramos)

Maple-Teriyaki Marinade

The headnote says: “This marinade helps to tenderize meat, while giving it a sweet-salty onion flavor. It works nicely with skirt steak as well.”

Makes 1¼ cups

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon garlic

1 tablespoon fresh ginger

2 tablespoons minced shallots

½ cup tamari/soy sauce

½ cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

1½ pounds flank steak

Directions:

In the bowl of a food processor with a metal blade, process garlic, ginger, and shallots until minced. Add soy sauce and maple syrup; pulse to combine. Slowly add oil, and process until emulsified. Add sesame seeds, and pulse once.

Transfer marinade mixture to a shallow glass baking dish or a zip-top plastic bag. Add steak and allow it to marinate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

Heat grill or broiler to medium high. Grill or broil, 3 to 6 minutes on each side, or until tender and internal temperature reaches 135 degrees. Let steak rest 10 minutes; slice thinly against the grain before serving.

Recipes copyright by Corrine Kozlak and used with permission of Adventure Publications.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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338954 2024-03-24T05:00:07+00:00 2024-03-24T05:01:23+00:00
Cookbook features recipes for two-ingredient dough that anyone can make https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/03/10/cookbook-features-recipes-for-two-ingredient-dough-that-anyone-can-make/ Sun, 10 Mar 2024 09:00:03 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=338076&preview=true&preview_id=338076 When it comes to baking, making a pie crust and recipes requiring yeast intimidate many people, including me. Let’s be honest, at least perception-wise, baking with yeast is more complex and sophisticated than baking methods that are quicker.

But why? Activating the yeast properly could be intricate, and the rising process requires time and patience. And without the exact measuring of ingredients and timing of when ingredients are added, you could end up with not-so-appealing results. Let’s not forget accurate baking time and having a properly calibrated oven.

When it comes to a recipe that lists yeast as an ingredient, many pass right by it. The chemistry behind baking, and the preciseness required for the chemical reactions that must occur to end up with a product that has the right texture and flavor, scares home cooks. This is usually not the case when it comes to other cooking techniques.

During my interview with author Erin Renouf Mylroie for my recent soup column, she mentioned her previous title, “2-ingredient Miracle Dough Cookbook: Easy Lower-Carb Recipes for Flatbreads, Bagels, Deserts and More” (2019, Page Street Publishing, $21.99). I was determined to get a copy.

She was originally skeptical when she came across two-ingredient dough while browsing online. Considering herself to be an avid baker, and not minding the hours to produce aged pizza dough to perfection, and other quality baked goods, she said: “The idea of a dough that could be ready in minutes with only two ingredients seemed almost like fool’s gold … and probably too good to be true.”

After trying a few recipes, she was sold on this new technique of baking.

“Anyone who can hold a spoon can make two-ingredient dough,” she writes. “Everyone can remember the ingredient list: equal parts Greek yogurt and self-rising flour. There’s no waiting, no rising, no complicated or fussy techniques here.”

Another plus she mentions is this dough is lower in calories and carbs. Why?

“Half of the bulk of the dough comes from protein-rich Greek yogurt,” she said. “You’ll always want to use Greek yogurt for two ingredient dough because of its thick texture. Regular yogurt will be too watery to get the thick and only slightly sticky dough. Greek yogurt is also a better source of protein than regular yogurt, so you’ll get more health benefit from this type.”

When asked about using this technique and the difference in the outcome vs. using yeast, she responded: “The leaveners in the self-rising flour react with the yogurt in the dough to create a light and fluffy baked good. It’s not exactly the flavor of yeast, but it gets the job of done with fantastic results!”

I asked her to pick her two favorite recipes from the book.

“I really love the bagels in the book,” she said. “It was the first two-ingredient recipe I tried, and the one that I return to must often. They make an excellent breakfast sandwich in the morning, a great snack with a schmear of protein, and they slice up nicely to make bagel chips if you’re blessed with any leftovers.

“I also love buttery parmesan and garlic knots. It’s hard not to love anything slathered with garlic butter. One of the sweet treats that I love is the Ginger and Brown Sugar banana cake. It’s a bit of a stretch to call it two- ingredient dough since I throw in a few more things, but it sure is scrumptious!”

What does she hope the reader learns from the book?

“I hope that readers of ‘2-Ingredient Miracle Dough’ will enjoy creating baked goods that are a little healthier, a little faster and a little easier than yeast risen baked goods you would normally make at home,” she said. “I hope it gets some readers back in the kitchen!”

She concludes the book’s introduction with, “Two-ingredient dough might seem a little too good to be true, but that’s the miracle.”

Here are a few recipes from the book so you too can experience that miracle. (I made the Irish Soda Bread and it “disappeared” the same day!)

Four Seasons Sheet Pan Pizza - Pizza Quattro Stagioni is a bit of a showstopper. It's just so pretty to see a sheet pan full of four different pizza choices.
Four Seasons Sheet Pan Pizza – Pizza Quattro Stagioni is a bit of a showstopper. It’s just so pretty to see a sheet pan full of four different pizza choices.

For the recipe for Four Seasons Sheet Pan Pizza—Pizza Quattro Stagioni visit https://bit.ly/4c2u0nY

Monterey Jack Cheese, Dill and Scallion Biscuits

The headnotes says: “I love biscuits with barbecue in the summertime and with pot roasts in the winter. Biscuits come together so quickly, but like all warm breads, they make a meal seem almost holiday-special. If you have any leftover biscuits, these make a spectacular sandwich with leftover shredded barbecue meat and a little coleslaw.”

Makes 6 biscuits

Ingredients:

1½ cups self-rising flour, plus more for work surface

1½ cups plain Greek yogurt

3 tablespoons cold butter

½ cup Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

¼ cup sliced scallions

2 tablespoons butter, melted

½ teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon dried dill weed

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, mix the flour and yogurt until just combined. Grate the cold butter, using the large holes from a box grater, directly into the bowl with the flour and yogurt. Gently stir together. Stir in the shredded cheese and scallions.

Dust a work surface generously with flour. Transfer the dough to the work surface and knead until smooth, about 30 seconds. Press the dough into a rectangle, about 9 x 6 inches. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into six equal-shaped square biscuits. Transfer the biscuits to the baking sheet, spacing about 2 inches  apart.

In a small bowl, combine the melted butter, garlic powder and dill. Brush about half of the butter mixture over the tops of the biscuits. Bake for about 16 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Remove the biscuits from the oven and brush them with the remaining butter mixture. Cool for 5 minutes before eating.

Philadelphia Cheesesteak Stromboli pays homage to the two great Philadelphia food favorites: cheesesteak and Stromboli. (Courtesy of Ken Goodman)
Philadelphia Cheesesteak Strombolipays homage to the two great Philadelphia food favorites: cheesesteak and stromboli. (Courtes of Ken Goodman)

Philadelphia Cheesesteak Stromboli

The headnote says: “This hearty dish pays homage to the two great Philadelphia food favorites: cheesesteak and Stromboli. The debate rages on over what is the proper cheese for a Philly cheesesteak, but I prefer provolone here because it melts beautifully and adds a hint of creamy sweetness. You could swap out the provolone for any cheese you like. One more note: this Stromboli is a Superbowl tradition at my house. Cut it small if you want to serve it as an appetizer.”

Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 pound tender beef sandwich steaks, raw, thinly sliced

1 green bell pepper, thinly sliced

1 onion, thinly sliced

6 ounces mushrooms, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1¼ cups self-rising flour, plus more for work surface

1¼ cups plain Greek yogurt

8 ounces provolone cheese, sliced, or substitute shredded mozzarella

2 tablespoons butter

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon minced parsley

Directions:

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the beef and cook about halfway through, about 3 minutes. Add the bell pepper, onion and mushrooms. Cook for about 7 minutes, or until the meat is cooked through and the vegetables are softened. Add the Worcestershire sauce and stir. Turn off the heat and let it cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and line a standard baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, combine the flour and yogurt with a wooden spoon, stirring until a sticky dough forms. Generously flour a work surface. Turn dough out onto the work surface and knead, adding a dusting of flour from time to time, until the dough is no longer sticky. Roll or press the dough into a rectangle about 15 x 10 inches. Place the cheese in a long line parallel to the long edge of the dough, leaving a 4-inch margin. Cover the cheese with the beef mixture.

Roll up the dough, cinnamon roll style, until you have a tight cylinder, and pinch the edges shut. Transfer the Stromboli to the prepared baking sheet.

In a small microwaveable dish, heat the butter and garlic until the butter is melted and the garlic is fragrant, about 40 seconds. Add the parsley. Brush the dough with half the butter and garlic mixture. Cut a few slits along the top of the dough to allow steam to escape.

Bake the Stromboli for 14 to 18 minutes, or until it’s golden brown. Brush the Stromboli with the remaining butter mixture. Let it cool for 10 minutes before slicing into segments and serving.

Sweet Irish Soda Bread with Currants and Raisins is perfect for St. Patrick's Day. Serve it warm with a generous dollop of creamy Irish butter. You can add caraway seeds if you like for an interesting sweet and savory twist, (Courtesy of Ken
Sweet Irish Soda Bread with Currants and Raisins is perfect for St. Patrick’s Day. Serve it warm with a generous dollop of creamy Irish butter. You can add caraway seeds if you like for an interesting sweet and savory twist, (Courtesy of Ken

Sweet Irish Soda Bread With Currants and Raisins

The headnote says: “I’m duty bound to make this special bread for St. Patrick’s Day every year, but it would be wonderful any day, especially if you serve it warm with a generous dollop of creamy Irish butter. You can add caraway seeds if you like for an interesting sweet and savory twist, but I like it best with dried fruit and a crunchy sugar topping. “

Serves 8

Ingredients:

½ cup dried currants or dried cranberries

¼ cup raisins

1½ cups self-rising flour, plus more for work surface

1 cup vanilla-flavored Greek yogurt

4 tablespoons sugar

1 egg

2 tablespoons cold butter, grated

2 tablespoons cream or milk

2 tablespoons turbinado or coarse sugar

Directions:

Place the currants and raisins in a small dish and cover with 1 cup boiling water. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, yogurt, sugar, egg and butter. Drain the currants and raisins and stir them into the dough.

Generously flour a work surface. Turn out the dough onto the work surface. Knead the dough until a smooth dough forms, about 1 minute. Place the dough on the prepared baking sheet and brush with the cream and sprinkle with the turbinado.

Using a sharp knife, score the bread into eight pieces, cutting pie style into wedges, but not cutting all the way through to the bottom. Bake for 22 to 24 minutes, or until it’s golden brown. Serve in wedges with whipped butter if you like.

Recipes reprinted with permission from “2-Ingredient Miracle Dough Cookbook” by Erin Renouf Mylroie (Page Street Publishing Co., 2019)

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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338076 2024-03-10T05:00:03+00:00 2024-03-11T07:44:32+00:00
Dish up some comfort https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/02/25/dish-up-some-comfort/ Sun, 25 Feb 2024 10:00:57 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=336845&preview=true&preview_id=336845 Is it the taste, nostalgia, mood or being lonely that causes one to resort to eating comfort food?

Whether it be high-fat, sugar, carbs or salt, at certain times we crave eating homestyle foods.  As I write this column, it is a cold, gray and blustery day. Easy to prepare, although not exactly gourmet, this category of food we’ve come to savor comes to the rescue.

Creamy mashed potatoes with spinach fit the bill for me on this bleak day. It’s a dish Mom and Grandma served frequently.

Depending upon the region or country you are from, what one considers comfort food varies. Brazil’s feijoada, French onion soup, Greece’s moussaka, Irish stew, Italy’s lasagna, Poland’s pierogi, United Kingdom’s fish and chips and the United States’ macaroni and cheese are the tip of the iceberg when it comes to this type of connection to our food.

According to an article in The Atlantic, “The phrase ‘comfort food’ has been around at least as early as 1966, when the Palm Beach Post used it in a story…”

A feature by Bert Gambini in a University of Buffalo newsletter says: “Regardless of what you identify as comfort food, it’s likely the attraction to that dish is based on having a good relationship with the person with whom you remember first preparing it…. Comfort foods are often the foods that our caregivers gave us when we were children.”

“If we have a positive association with the person who made that food, then there’s a good chance that you will be drawn to that food during times of rejection or isolation,” says University of Buffalo psychologist Shira Gabriel.

The top five comfort foods listed in Discover Magazine (https://bit.ly/3uuiQI3) are grilled cheese, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, pizza, spaghetti and meatballs.

It goes on to say, “Ralph’s Italian Restaurant (oldest Italian restaurant in the U.S.) in South Philadelphia is recognized as having the best meatballs in the U.S.”

Check out this link, bit.ly/3OOgudJ, for a video of them being prepared.

There are myriad books devoted to comfort food and homestyle cooking. So many of these recipes celebrate American cuisine, countless handed down through the generations.

Julia Rutland, author of a book that will be available on April 16 titled “Homestyle Kitchen: Fresh & Timeless Comfort Food for Sharing” (2024, Adventure Publications, $22.99) said: “Homestyle cooking creates the type of food that embodies the warmth and familiarity of a loving home. While family and cultures differ, homestyle cooking relies on fresh ingredients, traditions, generational recipes, and comfort.”

Rutland’s hope is to inspire memories. Many of the recipes featured are from her mom’s recipe box with her own twist on them. The recipe for Wacky Cake, she mentioned, is the first recipe she ever made when she was a child. Making this cake today preserves not only the flavors but also the memories of shared meals around the table; emotionally comforting.

During an interview, Rutland used a food term I was not familiar with: “meat ‘n’ three.” Do you know what it is? Well, if you are from the South, you might. It’s a way Southern comfort food is served in many restaurants… you choose a meat (often it is meatloaf, fried chicken, country- fried steak) plus three sides from the menu.

Guess what some of the side selections might be? Mac n’ cheese, collard greens, hush puppies. My mouth is watering thinking about the meals I enjoyed in the South.

Comfort food and homestyle cooking don’t seem to be falling out of popularity. Let’s get cooking a few recipes from Rutland’s book, food that is approachable, food we cherish that brings back fond memories. One of these may be or become a dish you savor.  For the recipe for Parker House Rolls, visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.

Even with warmer weather around the corner, I’ll still be eating mashed potatoes and spinach when I crave comfort food.

Here are come recipes from Rutland’s upcoming book.

Baked Four- Cheese Macaroni: This crispy-topped and creamy-centered macaroni and cheese features four cheeses that take the company-size side dish to the next level. (Courtesy of Adventure Publications)
Baked Four- Cheese Macaroni: This crispy-topped and creamy-centered macaroni and cheese features four cheeses that take the company-size side dish to the next level. (Courtesy of Julia Rutland)

Baked Four-Cheese Macaroni

The headnote says: “This crispy-topped and creamy-centered macaroni and cheese features four cheeses that take the company-size side dish to the next level. Use a variety of your favorite cheeses — smoked Gouda is lovely! Grate from large pieces rather than buying packaged shredded cheese because those contain starches that keep them from clumping and melting well. It’s okay to skip the topping and eat the dish before baking, but you’ll miss the golden-brown crust. Instead of panko, feel free to try cheese crackers as a variation.”

Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

2 cups (8 ounces) shredded sharp cheddar cheese

1 cup (4 ounces) shredded Gouda, provolone or Monterey Jack cheese

½ cup (2 ounces) shredded Parmesan cheese

½ cup salted butter

¼ cup all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

½ teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 cups vegetable or chicken broth

2 cups milk or half-and-half

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, cut into pieces

1 (16-ounce) package macaroni, penne, or other short pasta

1/3 cup panko breadcrumbs

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease (with butter) a 9-by-13-inch (3-quart) baking dish. Toss cheddar, Gouda, and Parmesan together in a small bowl. Reserve ½ cup shredded cheese mixture.

Melt butter in a large skillet or saucepan. Whisk in flour, salt, black pepper, garlic powder, and cayenne pepper. Cook, whisking constantly, for about 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in broth and milk until smooth. Cook, whisking constantly, for 5 minutes or until thickened. Stir in cream cheese; cook until smooth. Stir in all but reserved 1/2 cup shredded cheese mixture; cook, stirring frequently, until smooth.

Cook pasta according to package directions; drain and transfer to prepared baking dish.

Pour sauce over pasta, stirring until well blended. Stir panko into reserved ½ cup cheese mixture; sprinkle over pasta mixture. Bake, uncovered, for 25 to 30 minutes or until golden brown.

This Chicken Divan's origin is said to come from the Divan Parisien Restaurant at the Chatham Hotel in New York City sometime in the 1930s or 1940s. While many recipes use canned-soup shortcuts, this one is closer to the original with a homemade bechamel sauce. (Courtesy of Adventure Publications)
This Chicken Divan’s origin is said to come from the Divan Parisien Restaurant at the Chatham Hotel in New York City sometime in the 1930s or 1940s. While many recipes use canned-soup shortcuts, this one is closer to the original with a homemade bechamel sauce. (Courtesy of Julia Rutland)

Chicken Divan Casserole

The headnote says: “This dish makes a comforting meal with or without a side of buttered noodles or hot cooked rice. Its origin is said to come from the Divan Parisien Restaurant at the Chatham Hotel in New York City sometime in the 1930s or 1940s, but it wasn’t likely served in a casserole form. It became wildly popular in households in the 1950s; while many recipes use canned-soup shortcuts, this one is closer to the original with a homemade béchamel sauce.”

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

6 cups broccoli florets (about ¾ pound)

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into bite-size pieces

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, divided

¾ teaspoon coarsely ground  black pepper

5 tablespoons salted or unsalted butter, divided

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups chicken broth or Quick Chicken Broth (on page 44)

1 cup half-and-half or whole milk

2 cups (8 ounces) shredded cheddar cheese

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ cup sour cream

Cheesy Topping (recipe below)

Hot cooked pasta or rice (optional)

Directions:

Lightly grease (with butter) bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch (3-quart) baking dish.

Cook broccoli in boiling water to cover for 5 minutes or until crisp-tender. (You can also place broccoli in a microwave-safe bowl with ¼ cup water. Cover and microwave on high for 3 ½ minutes.) Drain and transfer to prepared baking dish.

Sprinkle chicken with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken in batches and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes or until browned on all sides. Transfer to baking dish.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in the same skillet (no need to wipe clean) over medium heat. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth and half-and-half. Cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes or until slightly thickened. Stir in cheese, Worcestershire, cayenne pepper, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining ½ teaspoon black pepper. Stir in sour cream. Pour sauce over chicken and broccoli.

Sprinkle Cheesy Topping evenly on top. Bake, uncovered, for 25 to 30 minutes or until golden brown and bubbly. Serve over hot cooked pasta or rice, if desired.

Cheesy Topping: Combine ½ cup shredded Parmesan or cheddar cheese, ½ cup panko or fine breadcrumbs, and 2 tablespoons melted salted or unsalted butter in a bowl. Makes ¾ cup.

Originally made famous at Hollywood's Brown Derby Restaurant, this Cobb Salad has changed little over the years. (Courtesy of Adventure Publications)
Originally made famous at Hollywood’s Brown Derby Restaurant, this Cobb Salad has changed little over the years. (Courtesy of Julia Rutland)

Cobb Salad

The headnote says: “Originally made famous at Hollywood’s Brown Derby Restaurant, this salad has changed little over the years. In 1937, owner Bob Cobb explored the kitchen one night in search of a snack. He pulled out various ingredients from the refrigerator and created a hearty salad that he shared with his friend Sid Grauman of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. Grauman returned the next day and asked for a ‘Cobb salad.’ The Cobb salad is a favorite on menus today. Off season, endive and watercress might be tricky to find in markets. Substitute easily found spring salad mix instead.”

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 small head Romaine lettuce, chopped

½ head iceberg lettuce, chopped

1 small bunch curly endive, chopped

½ bunch watercress

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

2 tomatoes, peeled and diced

2 cups diced cooked chicken breasts

6 bacon strips, cooked and chopped

3 hard-cooked eggs, diced

1 ripe avocado, diced

½ cup crumbled Roquefort or blue cheese

French Vinaigrette Dressing (recipe below)

Directions:

Combine Romaine, iceberg, endive, watercress and chives in a large salad bowl, mixing well. Place on a serving platter or on individual salad plates. Arrange tomatoes, chicken, bacon, eggs, and avocado in strips across salad greens. Sprinkle with cheese. Drizzle with French Vinaigrette Dressing.

French Vinaigrette Dressing: Combine ¼ cup water, ¾  teaspoon dry mustard, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, 1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar, ¼  cup red wine vinegar, 1 ½  teaspoons lemon juice, ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, and 1 minced garlic clove in a bowl. Whisk in 3/4 cup vegetable oil and 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil. Blend well just before serving. Store in refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Makes 1 ½ cups.

Named for their creation in the 1870s at the Parker House hotel in Boston, these rolls differ from regular yeast rolls in that they are folded into layers, brushed with butter and baked close together. (Courtesy of Adventure Publications)
Named for their creation in the 1870s at the Parker House hotel in Boston, these rolls differ from regular yeast rolls in that they are folded into layers, brushed with butter and baked close together. (Courtesy of Julia Rutland)

To see the recipe for Parker House Rolls, visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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336845 2024-02-25T05:00:57+00:00 2024-02-25T05:01:37+00:00
New Smyrna Beach in Florida is an idyllic haven https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/2024/02/11/new-smyrna-beach-in-florida-is-an-idyllic-haven/ Sun, 11 Feb 2024 10:00:08 +0000 https://www.mainlinemedianews.com/?p=335501&preview=true&preview_id=335501 Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett, co-founder and co-host of Worth Tasting, contributed to this column.

From surfers with a taste to catch a great wave to early morning sunrise photographers and beach walkers, anywhere along 17 miles of inviting, white sand beaches, New Smyrna Beach, Fla., is an idyllic haven to stay in and feel a bit like a local while savoring an incredible vacation.

The sunshine and air feel and seem brighter and lighter in this historic charmer of a beach town. You can even drive and park your car directly on the beach — one of very few places in Florida and the Continental U.S. where this unique, off-road experience is allowed.

It feels like it all happens here between the rich biodiversity of the Indian River Lagoon and its important place in Florida’s history of its earliest settlers with the arrival of a Scottish physician and about 1,200 Mediterranean settlers in 1768. New Smyrna Beach is named after the wife of Andrew Turnbull, who was born in Smyrna in Asia Minor.

Arriving to visit some 256 years later in January marked a turning point in our dozens and dozens of trips to Florida. Something here struck me as the best of everything Florida has to offer all rolled into the fascinating facets, districts and avenues that create an ideal location for diverse culinary exploration. A foodies playground for sure . . . Truly, one of Florida’s hidden gems.

I couldn’t agree more with how the visitor’s bureau (www.visitnsbfl.com) describes the area’s lodging options: “In New Smyrna Beach, there are as many different styles of lodging as there are varieties of birds skimming the shores. From whimsically appointed, colorful and eclectic, low-slung beach cottages just steps from the sand, to lofty, sleek, bright, modern oceanfront condos with picture windows overlooking the shimmering ocean horizon.”

For this exploration, two different styles were enjoyed.

The Black Dolphin Inn an intimate, Spanish Isle-inspired enclave with 14 rooms, is situated across from the Indian River (Courtesy of Jumping Rocks Inc. and provided by Black Dolphin Inn)
The Black Dolphin Inn an intimate, Spanish Isle-inspired enclave with 14 rooms, is situated across from the Indian River (Courtesy of Jumping Rocks Inc. and provided by Black Dolphin Inn)
Guests can sit at the counter at the open kitchen at Black Dolphin Inn and enjoy breakfast. (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)
Guests can sit at the counter at the open kitchen at Black Dolphin Inn and enjoy breakfast. (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)

The Black Dolphin Inn (www.blackdolphininn.com), an intimate, Spanish Isle-inspired enclave with 14 rooms, is situated across from the Indian River, where relishing watching the sun rise was the perfect way to begin the day. I could tell that lots of love went into the design of this spectacular inn. From the moment we first saw the architecture and lobby, we knew this was someplace special.

The focal point upon entering is the immaculate, open kitchen and counter seating, where a full breakfast is served daily. I asked the owner what the inspiration for the kitchen’s location was.

“The kitchen is where we convene in the home and as part of the design, it was important to make it conducive for us to interact with the guests,” he said.

This AAA Four Diamond inn has uniquely decorated rooms, many with a balcony, where one can enjoy morning coffee or sip a glass of wine. The courtyard with its cypress and palm trees is an oasis to sit and relax with a book or think about what is next on the agenda in exploring.

Joy By The Sea is a tranquil, luxe, seaside oasis. (Courtesy of Joy By The Sea)
Joy By The Sea is a tranquil, luxe, seaside oasis. (Courtesy of Joy By The Sea)

Wanting to experience a beachside location, Joy By The Sea (https://joybythesea.org) more than fulfilled this desire. Six beachside villas include two 1-bedroom (perfect for families) and four studios.  All are complete with a full kitchen, surrounding the saltwater pool — a tranquil, luxe, seaside enclave.

The lavish and comfortably adorned Beach House across the street is the crème de la crème when it comes to a true-getaway vacation. With four bedrooms, full kitchen, two giant balconies, large pool with volleyball net, hot tub, outdoor kitchen and beachfront location, it’s a perfect place for large families and reunions.

And to top it all off, The Queen’s Gambit, about a mile away, is for those who want to experience a lavish beachfront lifestyle. The 5,000-square-foot home (sleeps 10) is immaculately decorated, has four bedrooms, an oceanfront, outdoor kitchen with pizza oven, infinity pool, putting green and pool table. No matter which accommodation you choose, Ryan, the concierge will arrange the perfect vacation or party with every amenity imaginable.

Third Wave Café & Wine Bar serves a classic yet eclectic mix of traditional Mediterranean and Southern coastal cuisine. Chef Dave focuses on using locally sourced and sustainable ingredients. He mentioned that the chicken comes from a few miles down the road. Mozzarella is made in house. And double zero flour (a must-try) is used to make pizzas. Think artisan restaurant in a beach town. The patio is inviting, adorned with greenery and enchanting firepit featuring an artistic iron globe sculpted into an octopus-sphere.

From the freshest of seafood, rotating features from the smoker to Neapolitan pizza, the price points meet all budgets. The Christmas salad is so colorful with vibrant flavors (shredded Granny Smith apples, carrots, cabbage, cucumber, roasted beets, kale, candied pecans, ricotta, white balsamic vinaigrette).

Knowing that the chef uses double zero flour, we had to order the Funghi Fromage pizza (oak-roasted, seasonal mushrooms, shredded mozzarella/provolone, Parmigiano Reggiano, garlic, herbs, authentic black truffle oil). It met our high expectation being that we are spoiled by some of the best pizza in the world in our hometown of New Haven, Conn.

Wild Alaskan King Salmon from the chef’s private reserve is brined, peppercorn crusted with Dijon butter beurre Blanc, an amazing dish. Keeping with the seafood theme, the description of Creste de Gallo caught my attention: broken scallops, Florida rock shrimp, semolina pasta, mushrooms, artichokes, cherry tomatoes, capers, tossed in scampi butter and topped with a sprinkle of Pecorino. It tasted as good as it sounded with a generous amount of seafood.

The mixologist serves up creative beverages, including the “Dry Creations.” The Queen’s Mule was impressive in both taste and presentation, prepared with Seedlip distilled herbal (a non-alcohol spirit), house-made hibiscus honey syrup, organic lemon, mint and Fever Tree ginger beer. The luscious tres leches cake is large enough for two, perhaps even three, beautifully adorned with piped fresh whipped cream topped with strawberries.

SoNapa Grille pays homage to two popular wine regions in California, Sonoma County and Napa Valley, with its extensive wine list and chef-inspired food complementing the wine.  Whether you’re looking for a full entrée or light bites, the menu has you covered. Popular on the menu are the brick oven flat breads, so one had to be tried. The Sereno de Mar (grilled shrimp, sun-dried tomato pesto, spinach, goat cheese crumbles, with a drizzle of balsamic glaze) was lite and flavorful. The perfectly executed thin crust, cooked to perfection let the toppings take center stage.

The soup special, Green Bean “casserole” is a play on a Thanksgiving traditional side dish, tasting like it, albeit with soup consistency. The grilled shrimp and polenta description led to ordering this appetizer. Large shrimp tops a crispy polenta cake with just enough habanero honey butter to add a bit of heat and sweet, all sprinkled with goat cheese crumbles. Tile fish (always try local) was the catch of the day. The mild, sweet flavor is similar to lobster and crab. Its preparation allows the fine flavors to shine; pan seared, served over dashi-infused, black-forbidden rice, topped with shitake-umami butter sauce. The seasonal “Churro” Basque cheesecake…yes, the flavors of a churro) put a fantastic, sweet ending to the SoNapa experience.

Norwood's Restaurant and Treehouse Bar is quite a unique setting. With the right timing, you might capture picturesque sunset views through the canopy of branches and foliage. (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)
Norwood’s Restaurant and Treehouse Bar is quite a unique setting. With the right timing, you might capture picturesque sunset views through the canopy of branches and foliage. (Courtesy of Chris Bartlett)

Norwood’s Restaurant & Treehouse Bar is not new to the food scene, founded in 1946, and a local favorite. What makes Norwood’s unique is the option to dine and enjoy a drink upstairs — in the tremendous treehouse. With the right timing you might capture picturesque sunset views through the canopy of branches and foliage.

But don’t let the treehouse overshadow the food. The house smoked bacon wrapped scallops is a popular dish. It’s so popular, the restaurant goes through 300 pounds of bacon per week. The zucchini bread served with whipped local honey-cinnamon butter is a must. Interestingly, Chef Dennis had an abundance of zucchini on hand when restaurants were forced to close due to the pandemic. Thus, zucchini bread was the answer. Those who ordered take-out, were given a loaf to enjoy at home.

He was pleased to provide his recipe (see below). The recipe, prepared at home, was perfect in taste and texture and it’s addicting. The smoked fish dip, perfect for sharing, is served with locally made lavash (the best ever). The seafood “potpie” has a generous amount of shrimp, scallops, crab and other fresh fish sauteed in a white wine supreme sauce topped with tender and flaky puff pastry.

Seafood lovers, you’ll want to order the Admiral’s Platter (5-ounce lobster tail, grilled mahi, broiled sea scallops and shrimp).  Next visit, we’ll save room to savor the cinnamon roll cheesecake topped with a Rumchata cream cheese icing and candied pecans.  If you enjoy eating early, the Sunset Menu offers great options.

Something we found quite charming in New Smyrna Beach is how it feels like there are three distinct downtown areas, each with a different vibe to experience and explore. Flagler Avenue, with its chilling-at-the-beach energy, exudes the more relaxed; aren’t-we-all-tourists-on-vacation kind of atmosphere. Our first day began both with breakfast at the super-fun, uber-themed Mermaid Cafe, and a stroll up and down Flagler to the beach and back to where the causeway bridges over the Indian River North.

The Mermaid Cafe offers a playful and innovative menu, where most of the usual breakfast fare has some unique twist or interesting preparation — think Belgian waffles stuffed with all kinds of fresh, yummy goodness. These are way beyond the typical egg, meat and cheese sandwiches. How about a gorgeous basket of piping-hot, powder-sugar covered beignets . . . So scrumptious that they rival Cafe du Monde in New Orleans.

After hanging out at the beach, exploring local shops and Smyrna Dunes Park, we headed to Avanu on Flagler for dinner. What a beautiful space. The Polynesian-leaning menu, exquisitely curated dining and bar areas, coupled with inventive dishes make this restaurant inviting and charming. From the Volcano Shrimp to the Bugagi Salad to the Lemongrass Seafood Noodles, each dish and every bite was a hit.

On this coolish evening, we chose to “experience” the Fire Dessert, which was a creamy slice of panko-crusted cheesecake, flash fried then flambeed (tableside) ala Bananas Foster -yes, outrageous and decadent and sheer perfection!

Canal Street straddles the mainland side of the Indian River North. It is lined with eclectic shops, restaurants, art studios, bars and cafes. It seems as though this is where the locals, and area residents, come into town to conduct business, shop, eat, engage and play.

The Hub on Canal and Jane’s Art Center are two of the most impressive spaces both to shop (and support) regional artists, and to immerse in some fantastic classes — super impressive spaces that add such inspiration and vibrancy to the community.

Lunch at The Corkscrew was inspired. From the superb service to the decor to the fresh menu fare, we are thrilled that we dined here. The Cuban Candy (crispy fresh cod bites with sweet chili sauce and house-made remoulade) is so tasty that we could eat it everyday. And though we passed on a sweet ending (extremely difficult to do), the dessert tray that our waiter displayed at the table was total temptation city.

Another fantastic spot along the river, and not too far from Canal Street, is Outriggers. From locally caught fish, fresh-fried or expertly grilled, Chef Erik Amalfitano’s passion for creating and serving food people will enjoy and love is refreshing and infectious. He also happens to have mastered one of the best Key Lime Pie recipes — classic and memorable (crazy-big portion, too) as it is meant to be.

Over on Third Avenue, we couldn’t resist at least one stop into Mon Delice for croissants, pastries, coffee from locally roasted beans and custom-made breakfast sandwiches with a choice of just about any type of French bread, rolls and/or croissants. Although there is nowhere to eat inside, this is a must-visit at least once, or once daily, if you love an authentic European-style bakery, this is the place.

Across Third Avenue, adjacent to both Norwood’s and The Garlic, is Heath’s Natural Foods.  We enjoyed the market with its massive array of products for body, mind and spirit. From the available wine varieties to the chef-driven deli area, everything is thoughtfully and purposefully curated, prepared and shared with sheer joy — thus we enjoyed a wonderfully delicious and nutritious lunch here.

It was welcoming, friendly and authentic in a way that seems to perfectly reflect the extremely dynamic and hospitable people who give New Smyrna Beach such brightness and warmth.

Interestingly, the more days spent exploring any local, culinary destination, our list of recommendations from people only grows as to where we have to try while in town. Everyone has their respective favorites. And that’s no surprise.

Of course, New Smyrna Beach was no exception. With only four full days, these bragged about restaurants and historic inn await our return. A quick tour of the Victoria 1883 left us breathless between its exquisitely appointed interior, rooms and thoughtfully presented grounds and property — an absolute must stay.

One breakfast chef said both The Spot and The Bakers Table are musts. A few other recurring favorites seemed to be The Garlic, Limoncello, Cafe del Soul, City Market Bistro and The Grille at Riverview. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to Island Roasters Coffee Company either, but next time awaits.

Norwood’s Zucchini Bread

Ingredients:

3 cups zucchini, julienned

1 ½ cups canola oil

6 eggs

4 cups sugar

4 ¾ cups flour

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

1 ½ teaspoons salt

1 ½ teaspoons cinnamon

1 ½ teaspoons nutmeg

1 ½ teaspoons cloves

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9 x 13 inch pan.

Place zucchini, oil and eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer and mix until combined.

In a bowl, sift the remaining ingredients. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and mix until combined. Place batter in the greased pan and bake for 45-60 minutes. The top of the loaf will spring back when lightly pressed, alternatively, cake tester will be clean after inserting.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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